How To Setup A Wireless Bridge Between Two Buildings

reader comments 218 with 116 participating posters, including the story author Extending your Wi-Fi from building to building is, unfortunately, a bit of a secret art – but it It doesn’t have to be difficult or expensive. The main secret lies in knowing the right tools for the job. This is a job that doesn’t involve range extenders or relying on standard Wi-Fi mesh pads. The good news is, with the right equipment, you can connect your home to a construction site without the need for professional expertise or a ditch witch and a spool of landfill-grade cable. parents in the countryside as they move closer to their granddaughter. Their abode is beautiful, but that’s the kind of home where a riding lawn mower is optional — a tractor with a boar is a necessity. Tractor reported living in a barn about 80 meters from the house, much of which is a moderately dense forest. And that made it an excellent test candidate for a small do-it-yourself network test. Instead, we’re simply demonstrating that anyone can wirelessly connect two buildings quickly, cheaply, and easily. In fact, you may even end up enjoying unacceptable results in the end.

Wireless point-to-point bridge

When you want to extend your network from one building to another, the best answer is almost always cable — preferably pre-buried, Ethernet, or fiber optic cables, laid in a conduit and buried a few inches deep. meters underground. But it’s expensive. If all you need is good Internet access in a house with a pool or shed nearby, that’s almost certainly overkill. On the other hand, solutions involving omnidirectional Wi-Fi almost never work well. We’ve seen people try it with everything from range extenders to just splitting Wi-Fi meshes between buildings. Instead, the correct answer here is point-to-point Wi-Fi like a pair of kits we tested recently — the inexpensive 2.4GHz CPE210 and 5GHz CPE510 outdoor bridges. by TP-Link. Advertisement

Self-installation is good for short distances

The marketing and documentation of these and other point-to-point kits is aimed at professional installers, not homeowners. Phrases such as “professional installation only”, “tower installation” and “completely clear line of sight” appear frequently. If you’re trying to cover a distance of a few kilometers, this guide makes a lot of sense. But for shorter distances, you can get a lot more sloppy. I’ve deliberately kept things here sloppy and as simple as possible. Instead of attaching the house’s Access Point to the roof line, I tied it to a “cat tree” in the living room and directed it loosely into the barn through the picture window. On the warehouse side, I just put the Customer down on a utility shelf — and I purposely aimed it a few degrees off-center from the equipment in the house.

2.4 GHz vs 5 GHz vs Fast Ethernet

Read more: how to tell how old a ball python is These two TP-Link sets — and many competing Wi-Fi-oriented bridges — run on the older 802.11n (Wi-Fi 4) protocol and use only one radio only. You can buy a 2.4 GHz version or a 5 GHz version. And while it’s tempting to think, “Oh, 5 GHz will be faster,” that rarely happens. These are important factors if you need to chisel a few walls or a small piece of wood. When it comes to this low-cost Wi-Fi bridge and many other low-cost Wi-Fi bridges, the limiting factor is often not the Wi-Fi — it’s the wired Ethernet interface. Both the CPE210 and CPE510 have Fast Ethernet (100Mbps) wired interfaces, not gigabit. That means anything more than 100Mbps is effectively wasted. Most people in rural areas should use 2.4 GHz for greater range and penetration. Those in congested suburban areas may want to choose 5 GHz instead, especially for its range and lower penetration — especially if other neighbors’ homes are in line with the existing bridge. created. – AP points. I didn’t get a chance to test that particular device, but it does feature 802.11ac (Wi-Fi 5) and a gigabit interface — if you need more than 100Mbps, it might be worth looking into. But aside from some added costs, the CPE710 will require more effort to properly mount due to its physical complexity. Advertisement

How does it all work?

These simple point-to-point APs have only one port on them: a 100Mbps Ethernet interface, hidden behind a weatherproof access panel. That single interface provides the access point with both source and data. If you already have a Power over Ethernet (PoE) adapter, you can use it to feed the AP just like you would a camera or other device. If you don’t have a PoE switch, you can just use the PoE injector that comes with the CPE210/CPE510 instead — the injector has one AC power plug, one “Data” Ethernet port that you plug into your network and one Power + Ethernet port data goes to AP.Read more: How to clean an attack device In terms of remote control, everything works the same. You use the included PoE switch or injector to power and power the access point. If you are using an injector, the “Data” port can be plugged directly into a single device or plugged into a switch to power the entire network. —For them directly, I do not recommend doing so. Configuring multiple devices to use the same Wi-Fi band and channel as bridged APs will have a serious impact on point-to-point link quality. simple — connect a Wi-Fi Access Point such as TP-Link’s EAP-225 to the output of the bridge. If you configure it to have the same SSID (network name) and password that you use to connect to your home, your devices will even automatically roam to either side of the link. in your main home, you may not want to use the standalone access point approach outlined above. Instead, take one of your mesh kit’s nodes outside of your barn or guesthouse and plug its Ethernet interface into the CPE210/CPE510. The Eero node will consider itself directly connected to its mesh siblings by wire, and everything will “work” as if the Eero stable were still an Eero house.

Configuration

The TP-Link bridges I tested use TP-Link’s “Pharos” configuration interface. To log in to the brand new Bridge AP offered by Pharos, you will need a laptop or PC with an Ethernet interface, which you will plug into the same network as the bridge device. (On the remote side, you would plug it directly into the “Data” port of the AP’s power injector.) After temporarily granting your PC a static IP address in the 192.168.0.x subnet — eg: 192.168.0.10 — you browse to the AP’s original default IP address at http://192.168.0.254/. After default admin:admin login, you’ll be prompted to choose a new username and password, which will then lead to the Quick Setup wizard. Read more: How to roll up the sleeves of a jean jacket

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