How To Plant Azaleas In Clay Soil

Tips for growing azaleasPosted in Gardening Tips on May 10, 2011, by Sonia Uyterhoeven Sonia Uyterhoeven is a Gardener for Public Education. As discussed last week, good site conditions such as a soil pH of 4.5 to 6, soil rich in organic matter, good drainage, and a shaded to full sun environment including protection Wind protection is essential for the health of azaleas. Be sure to research the basic information about the rhododendron you are purchasing including its color and bloom time, maximum size, growth habit and hardiness When growing azaleas, it is important to provide enough space between them for enough light and air circulation. Plant labels and catalogs often provide information on the proper spacing for both the height and width of the azalea. or a mixture of composted bark and sand. While these are good media for container plants, making them easier to care for, the media has a very different structure to natural soil and water will not flow freely from one object to another. Usually, the native soil around newly planted azaleas will be moist while the root ball remains dry. So, the day before planting, you water the azaleas in pots so that they are sufficiently watered but not too waterlogged. The planting hole should be the same depth as the medium and 3-5 times wider, with sloping sides. Most of the roots on each azalea will grow in the top 12 inches of the soil, reaching outward instead of downward. The purpose of making a wide hole is to loosen the soil in the area of maximum root growth. Remember, rhododendron is a shallow-rooted plant. Do not dig the hole too deep, or the roots will sink and settle too low. If you have clay soil, you can grow the rhododendron a little taller (1 to 2 inches tall). Azaleas are sometimes grown over 6 inches tall with great success. To do this, add coarse sand and foliar compost to the backfill and arrange on a slight slope. Read more: how to get more botw weapon slotsFor more inspiration, visit the amazing, new Rhododendron Garden.When removing the rhododendron from the container, take care to protect the hair-like rootlets along the main root, which can be torn if the plant is pulled from the base straight from the container. Instead, for a small box, cover the top of the box with one hand around the trunk. Turn the pot upside down with a cupped hand and push the plant out of the box. If the root ball sticks to the medium, tap it gently on a firm surface to push the plant out of the pot. For a large crate, it may take two people to hold and tilt the crate or tilt and gently slide the plant out. It is necessary to loosen the roots before planting, otherwise they will grow in a way that affects the health of the plant. There are several ways to loosen the root system. If the roots are slightly attached to the pot, gently dig them out with your hands. If the roots are tightly wrapped around the root ball and are difficult to loosen, make three or four longitudinal slits down the side of the root ball about half an inch to three quarters of an inch deep. One of the newer techniques for treating potted shrubs is to plant a root ball first, without loosening the roots, and then with a sharp spade cut off about 3/4 inch (or less) around the root ball. Cutting off the outer layer of the root after it is in the ground gives the root ball more structure so that it won’t be damaged or collapsed by the force of the spade. If necessary. In an ideal world, you would modify the area around the planting site as much as possible, because if only the planting hole were modified, the roots could be in the richly modified area and not move out into the soil. around. The wider the planting hole, the better. The general rule is to add a quarter to a third of the organic matter in the hole; you can eyeball this amount. If you are gardening on heavy clay or sand, incorporate organic matter such as foliar compost. See also: Rhododendrons from A to Z: Know them to grow them Read more: how to disable pseudo-locations on android When growing shrubs, it is useful to add mycorrhizal fungi or inoculants in the soil to encourage the activity of soil microorganisms (read instructions for use). Fertilizer can be incorporated into the backfill at planting, although in the Garden we usually wait until the second crop. Do not apply a lot of fertilizer or apply a lot of nitrogen because it will promote the growth of the top rather than the growth of the roots. At the Garden, we often use a special organic fertilizer for plants of the Ericaceous family, Holly-tone® 4-3-4. Place the root ball in the hole and slowly backfill with soil. Gently firm the soil as you go so there are no air pockets around the roots, or water the hole when the soil is half full, letting the water subside and finish filling the hole. Build a temporary berm (one side slightly raised) about 3-4 inches high around the circumference of the root ball with any excess soil you may have. This will act as a reservoir, concentrating the water in the root ball area. Keep this temporary patch in place for 6-8 weeks. See also: Top Design Tips With Azaleas In The Home GardenIt is imperative to mulch your rhododendrons. Maximum depth is generally about two inches—not up. Peel off the mulch so as not to touch the plant, which can cause pest problems. Water as needed and then once a week throughout the first season, until the rhododendron is born. Your rhododendron will need an inch of water (including rain) per week or half a gallon per square foot. Read more: how to apply for a visa gift card to an amazon account