How To Paint Nighthaunts Chainrasps
Video How to draw NighthauntToday, I’m happy to present an extensive guide with 33 easy-to-follow steps. Create an atmospheric and effective paint scheme suitable for everything Nighthaunt from the lowly Chainrasp to the scariest Mortarch. Learn more after jumping. Read: how to draw Nighthaunt This tutorial assumes you already have a good understanding of how to draw. Below each figure are the corresponding instructions. Each step shows the paint color(s) I used in that step. I have a pretty eclectic paint collection, so when I use non-GW or OOP paint, I’ll try to provide you with suitable alternatives from the current Citadel paint line [in brackets].Paints I used for this tutorial:Corax White Primer Citadel Corax White Citadel Dawnstone Citadel Mechanical Standard Gray Citadel Eshin Gray City Incubi Darkness Citadel Longbeard Gray Citadel Screamer Pink Citadel The Emperor’s Son Steel Citadel Drab Army Nihilakh Oxide Citadel Coelia Greenshade Lahmian Citadel Medium Citadel Charadon Granite (OOP) [Skavenblight Dinge] Citadel Snot Green (OOP) [Warpstone Glow] Dark Angels Green Citadel (OOP) [Caliban Green] Military painter Warpaint Ink strong tones [Agrax Earthshade] Army Painter Warpboards Dark Tone Ink [Nuln Oil] Military painter paints metal guns [Leadbelcher] Military artist paints Metal Letter [Ironbreaker] Model Color Vallejo Black [Abaddon Black] Model Vallejo White [White Scar] Game Vallejo Color Brassy Brass [Gehenna Gold] Game Vallejo Green [Sybarite Green] Game Vallejo Color Livery Green [Moot Green, see step 28] Vallejo Game Color Scorpy Green [Moot Green] Formula P3 Bastion Gray [Stormvermin Fur] P3 Trollblood Highlight Formula [Stormvermin Fur, see step 19] Formula P3 Turquoise Ink [Coelia Greenshade, see step 4]In case you need to expand your paint collection, head to Wayland Games or Element Games, which offer a wide range of paints at competitive prices.1. Model has been primed with Corax White from Games Workshop, which is a light gray primer. I recommend applying three or four thin coats of paint for perfect coverage without smearing any details with paint. Since none of the colors in the Citadel range of paints match Corax White perfectly, I prepared a blend of Ceramite White, Mechanicum Standard Gray and Formula P3 Bastion Gray (I started with a ratio of about 12:1:1 and then added more paint until I got a match for Corax White; Bastion Gray can be replaced with Stormvermin Fur). I recommend mixing this whole pot, as you will need this mixture quite a bit. Once I’m happy with the blend, I use my equivalent Corax White to paint over any spots the primer doesn’t reach. [Update 2020: Games Workshop released a Corax White base paint by now, just use this instead]3. I rinsed all the ghost parts of the model with a 1:1 mixture of Nihilakh Oxide and Lahmian Medium. Try not to kill the model with this rinse, nor leave it on any areas. flat, airy. If you spot any build-up, use a brush to soak up any excess rinse aid or try to push it into the recesses. Once the rinse is completely dry, I apply pure Nihilakh Oxide and apply it directly to any areas that need extra coverage. I picked out the deepest shadows with a 1:2 combination of the P3 Turquoise Ink and Lahmian Medium Formula [you can use Coelia Greenshade instead of Turquoise Ink, but I prefer Turquoise Ink as it adds more vibrancy].5. I dry-brushed the spooky areas with my Corax White blend from step 2. Use a soft brush for this part and slowly build up the effect. A dry brush will help smooth out areas where Nihilakh Oxide may have dried out. If there is still some patching, mix a little Nihilakh Oxide into the Corax White mix and use it to paint over. I apply a second, gentler dry brush, this time with Corax White [you can use any pure white of your choice for this, e.g. White Scar]. Again, use a soft brush and don’t overdo it to avoid a powdery finish. Fading on ghost areas created with airbrush. I created the effect with several layers of pure Coelia Greenshade’s thin coat, focusing on the lower part of the spooky cloak. If you don’t have an airbrush, I recommend several layers of Incubi Darkness enamel diluted with water. Enamel with shades can often leave a matte finish. You can also skip this stage to speed up the process. The texture of the base is painted in the standard Mechanicus Gray color.Read more: How to wrap breasts with butcher paper9. I dry the sand with Longbeard Grey. Be careful not to bump into the lower parts of the model – using a small piece of paper held in place will help “cover” any painted areas. I applied a 1:1 mixture of Army Painter Warpboards Strong Tone Ink and Dark Tone Ink [Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil] on all sandbanks.11. I chose any of the larger rocks and tombstones with the Vallejo Model Color of Black [Abaddon Black]. Then I diluted the Incubi Darkness with just the right amount of water and painted it directly into the recesses to add a dark, unreal color to the rocks. Once dry, I carefully dried the rocks with Eshin Grey, then Dawnstone.13. I paint all metal with Warp Paint Gun Metal [Leadbelcher].14. Wooden parts with old Charadon Granite backing [Skavenblight Dinge is close].15. I used Warp Paint Dark Tone Ink [Nuln Oil] for polishing wood and metal. For the wood, I applied a selective wash to the recesses, while the metal was washed all over.16. I created the rust effect with two to three thin coats of paint that was heavily watered down to Skrag Brown.17. Metal parts are then highlighted with Warp Paint Plate Mail Metal [Ironbreaker].18. I mark the wood with Formula P3 Bastion Gray [Stormvermin Fur].19. Then a very thin second marker was applied to the wooden areas with the Trollblood Formula P3 marker [you could mix Stormvermin Fur with Pallid Wych Flesh or a little bit of white to match Trollblood Highlight].20. I choose brass parts with VGC Brassy Brass [Balthasar Gold is close].21. Brass thoroughly washed with Warp Paint Strong Tone [Agrax Earthshade].22. Verdigris was added by painting Nihilakh Oxide into selective cavities. Then I added a little VGC Foul Green [Sybarite Green] to enrich the effect.23. Then I marked the plain Plate Mail Metal [Ironbreaker].Read more: How to get a block24. Candle with background layer is Screamer Pink.25. I make candle shadows by selectively washing Dark Tone Ink [Nuln Oil].26. Then I highlighted the candles with the Emperor’s Children. 27. I diluted the Vallejo Model Color White [your favourite white, e.g. White Scar] with Lahmian Medium into a paste and apply evenly over the bale flame. The white paint will gather in the recesses where the flame is brightest.28. I created the flame effect with a thin layer of VGC Livery Green [Moot Green with a bit of white] and then Scorpio Green [Moot Green]leaving white holes.29. I added some thinned old Snot Green layers [Warpstone Glow], focusing on the upper vertices of the flame. 30. Old Dark Angels Green Final Highlights [Caliban Green] has been added to the top tips.31. I applied a thinly contoured VMC White highlighter [White Scar] to all the spooky parts. This enhances the highlights created by the dry white brush from step 6 and adds more strokes. It’s an optional step, you can just do it for your characters or just focus on focus points like the face and hands to save time.32. Several layers of Incubi Shadows, diluted to a wash-like consistency, are used to further darken the fade and blend the tips of the ghostly parts into the rock and ground.Finally, I painted the sole rim with Steel Legion Drab and added some dark brown static grass. If you want the basic gray trim like on the Studio models, use Stormvermin Fur instead.Here is a finished Chainrasps unit, all painted as explained. This paint scheme was inspired by Tyler Mengel’s beautiful Nighthaunt army, for which he also created a tutorial. Check it out here for a little bit different about drawing Nighthaunts.How do you like the way I draw Nighthaunts? Did you find anything useful in this tutorial for your own projects? Let us know in the comments section!Read more: how to develop free crate survival with multiplayer
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