How To Make Pipe And Drape Systems

Video How to Make a Pipe and Curtain System A few years ago, the Vice President of Special Projects built the backdrop for my first indie party out of PVC pipes. You can see it used at my Charlie Brown Thanksgiving party. This system – sometimes called a pipe and curtain system – is great because it allows you to place the backdrop wherever you need it. I’ve reused it in another configuration for my Snow Cone Bracket and today I’m sharing my tricks with you!Read: How to Create a Pipe and Curtain System If you need a backdrop for a party:

Light-weight
Hand
Reconfigurable
Inexpensive…

then you must try this PVC pipe system!

1 inch x 4 feet PVC pipe – 4
1 T – 6 . connector
Elbow Connector 1″ – 2
Mitre . Box and Saw

Optional power supplies

2 inch x 3 foot PVC pipe – 2
2 inch x 4 foot PVC pipe – 1
2 T-connectors – 2
Elbow Connector 2″ – 2

Decision …Decide on your PVC pipe scaffolding scale. Pipes are available in 4-foot and 10-foot lengths. My standard setup was 3.5 feet wide, which meant VP had to cut 4-foot sections with a cutting saw. That is actually quite easy. The circular saw helps you cut a straight line Read more: how to draw minion bob | Top Q&A Honestly, it would have been easier to make it 4 feet wide and avoid some pipe cuts, so that’s how I wrote these instructions. (If you need a backdrop more than four feet wide, you may want to insert vertical stands in the center for more stability.)Decide if your background should be free standing or against a wall. Either way, your frames will be the same. However, you will create another base. This will give you a background of about 4 feet by 6 feet.

Cut your pipe to size using a box and saw. We used four 4-foot tubes for the horizontal sections and eight 1.5-foot tubes for the vertical sections.

Start at the bottom with two 1.5-foot sections. Add T-connectors to each 1.5-foot length by twisting until you have a solid connection.

Now, add a 4-foot length horizontally between the two T-connectors.

Add two more 1.5-foot sections in T-connections and another 4-foot section.

Add two more 1.5 foot sections to your T-connects and your third 4-foot section.

Add two more 1.5 foot sections in the T connections. Top the ones with the two elbow connectors and add your last 4-foot section. If you want to hang a curtain from the top horizontal tube, obviously slide the curtain over the pipe before you screw the 4-foot hose into the elbow connectors.

Tip: In the photo with the purple polka dot background, I chose a curtain at WalMart and hung it upside down from the bottom hem. (The top trim is for a standard curtain rod and is too narrow for a 1-inch pipe.) You can also use 45- or 54-inch fabric, cover it over the top tube and secure it to itself by wrapping it and around the second pipe from the top.Build the Frame – Back Brace Version This version is what I built for our snow cone stand. It is probably the most stable base design, but the vertical part is not as sturdy as there is only one cross support. It also requires the most space and you will need optional supplies. This will give you a background of about 4 feet x 5.5 feet, but you can of course add an extra 1.5 foot vertical to make the background taller. Read more: How to make shoes smaller.

Cut your pipe to size using a box and saw. We used two 1.5 foot pipes for the vertical sections.

Start at the bottom with a 2-inch x 4-foot pipe, placing it on the ground to serve as the back of the base. Add elbow connectors at both ends.

In the elbow connectors, add the 2 inch x 3 foot hose. You should now have a lowercase “n” shape.

Add two 2-inch T-connectors to two 3-foot pipes.

Now add two more vertical, 1-inch x 4-foot sections in the two T-connectors. Top these with two T-connectors. Rotate these connectors to the back, which I forgot. (So sad!)

Add two 1.5-foot sections to the T-connectors. Top these with two elbow connectors.

Add the top 4-pin section between the elbow connectors.

Framing – Foot Version You may want to try this style if you need a stand-alone frame but don’t have the space for a back brace version. This style allows you to place your front feet underneath your dessert table, so they are hidden while still providing you with stability. This will give you a limited background of 4 feet by 5.5 feet.