How To Make Earring Posts By Hand
Yes, you can create your own earrings articles. In general, buying them will be more cost-effective, but making them is not a problem and sometimes it is useful to know how.Read: how to create earrings articlesfirst) Pull your rope down to the size you want. Maybe .9 mm.2) Careful wire annealing (avoid hot spots – local overheating). Robert Kaylor annealed the coiled wire in a tin can, igniting the flame from the outside to prevent local overheating.3) Carefully clip one end of the wire to the collet, secure the other end with a retractor or tongs or toothed pliers and pull gently and firmly, stretching the cord – you should see it stretch noticeably. This will straighten the wire in no time. 3) Carefully clip one end of the wire to the collet, secure the other end with a retractor or tongs or toothed pliers and pull gently and firmly, stretching the cord – you should see it stretch noticeably. This will straighten the wire in no time.4) Take a piece of custom brass tube about 3 inches (7cm) long, cut one end into a 45 degree angle or so, temper it, about an inch (2.5) cm below the flat end of the tube, making an indent with a hole in the middle and then drill a one mm hole in the bottom of the indentation. This will act as a funnel to get the wire into the hole (and tube). Then gently squeeze the tube near the dent and the hole at a 90-degree angle to make the tube an oval at that point. The hole-indent is one of the ends of the oval, on the short curve of the oval. You adjust the chime on the tube until the wire is inserted and then cut out flat with the tube, the cutout being the correct length for your earring posts.
5) Then stick the angled end of the tube into a hole you made in the top of the film can. Now when you insert the wire into the hole in the indent, it will slide in until it hits the far side of the tube, which is cut out flush with the outside of the tube at the indent. It then falls naturally down the tube into the film box, you can then clamp the film box into place gently in the collet and cut the appropriate length of the earring posts as quickly as you can. Thread the wire into the hole and cut. You’ll see that because we’ve made a funnel-shaped indent that leads to a hole in the tube that when you cut it, the wire you’re feeding automatically slides into the tube and stops ready to cut. The strings gathered in the movie can. The procedure is very quick and smooth. Read more: how to access the top secret discord control panel
6) Now flatten both ends of the wire (give them a flat end with right angles). Use a Zipee® belt sander (my favorite) or a sanding disc or splitter on your crimp shaft that you push the wires on (suggest using a tool to hold them – they can get very hot) or I can sand them flat on a cardboard disc sander. Here’s a quick job to do the whole pile or earring pile you’ve made.7) You will need #30 flex shaft handpiece or equivalent Jacobs Chuck type handpiece for the next step. The wire is clamped to the crimp shaft with approximately 4mm or quarter inch. (see the ‘Small tools’ article in the tips section for how to make a chuck key for use with a #30 handpiece)8) Depress the foot pedal and rotate the cord in the handpiece at medium speed. Then you make an indentation of the ear nut on the wire by gently pressing on the wire with a side cutter (go gently – you can easily cut out the wire instead of making a groove), or press the wire with round nose pliers. , or a triangular needle file held on a spinning wire, or my favorite solution: a pair of side cutters, the upper jaws replaced with a split disc or a diamond bezel, for a Small hole on cutter. This final is quick and sure and doesn’t require much skill or thinking, always a useful attribute in a production situation. 8) Depress the foot pedal and rotate the cord in the handpiece at medium speed. Then you make an indentation of the ear nut on the wire by gently pressing on the wire with a side cutter (go gently – you can easily cut out the wire instead of making a groove), or press the wire with round nose pliers. , or a triangular needle file held on a spinning wire, or my favorite solution: a pair of side cutters, the upper jaws replaced with a split disc or a diamond bezel, for a Small hole on cutter. This final is quick and sure and doesn’t require much skill or thinking, always a useful attribute in a production situation.
This hole allows you to clip the cutter to the ear cords, quickly and without skill requiring precise deep grooving, and ensuring that the wire ends are not cut rather than grooved. Some people solder the ear wires to the earpads and then manually slot them in with the side cutters, clamp them lightly, and rotate them back and forth around the post to create a groove at the end. When grooving too deeply into the wire leads to weakening and breakage – you should aim for a fairly shallow groove.9) Once the groove is made in the correct position on the ear wire in the crimp shaft, then hold a 220 grit (medium) bar against the end of the string as it rotates, moving it continuously to quickly round the end of the string. electricity. The rim of the cup held to the end of the reel will also round it. You can then hold a piece of leather or felt with polishing compound to the end of the strap to give it a bit of polish as a finishing touch. 9) Once the groove is made in the correct position on the ear wire in the crimp shaft, then hold a 220 grit (medium) bar against the end of the string as it rotates, moving it continuously to quickly round the end of the string. electricity. The rim of the cup held to the end of the reel will also round it. You can then hold a piece of leather or felt with polishing compound to the end of the string to give it a bit of polish as a finishing touch. .Read more: how to add fonts to drawten) When you are about to weld the earrings, use the earring clip tweezers to quickly clamp the earrings. A pair of cheaper, chrome-plated steel self-locking tweezers with a triangular notch placed at each end automatically clamp and clamp the earring posts at a right angle for quick back-earring. To use them, one simply throws the earring poles on the table and they are held easily and quickly at 90o no matter what angle they are held. Note that the tips have been honed so that when in use they can be easily grasped and guided the stud into its groove.
Clip the earring post near the notch. While clamped in the tweezers, rub the far flat end on an emery bar to clean it up for soldering (a good weld requires recently bared metal), then dip the bar tip in the flux. Let your solder chips preheat slightly on the brick. Gently heat the end of the flux until the liquid on it turns glassy, then tap it with a pre-made chip. The solder chip will stick to the end of the hot wire. (Do not direct the flame at other solder chips – we need them pre-melted but unheated to easily stick them to the ends of the wire in the way just described). Lift the wire off the surface of the solder and gently heat the end until the solder melts into it. Then heat the fluxed object itself. I usually take a small rounded edge and simply touch the back of the earring, where I want the post to fit bare metal for better connection and slightly increase the contact surface of the joint for improved durability.
As the earring gets hotter, watch the flame where it leaves the metal If it turns orange as it leaves the metal you are around 800-900 degrees F and can bring the earring column into the flame zone . If your metal is glowing red, you’ve skipped the orange flame and it’s time to heat your earring wire. Do not direct the flame to the earring column (you can melt it) but keep the flame on the earring. When you think the earring is hot enough, place the earring post (fix the heel of your hand nearby to secure it while soldering in place). Let the heat from the earring build up on its own and suck the solder that has been prefabricated on the pole down to connect it to the earring. Make sure it’s upright. Heat removal. Soak the earrings in water. Immediately check the connection with a pair of pliers. Now is the time to find out if you should join again, not later. To test it, using your flat-nose pliers, clamp the top third (knot) of the earring with the pliers at a 45 degree angle (this gives a good wide grip on it so you don’t dent it). or cord scars). Rotate the post 360 degrees around (yes, that’s right) and back again by the same amount.
If the post doesn’t fall out join as well. If it has fallen off now is the time to solder it. This also stiffens the post on its bottom two-thirds (since the post is annealed during soldering it is already soft dead – so it doesn’t matter if your post is hard or soft before you solder it in). If you’re moving fast and you’ve got everything ready, you can make good earrings very quickly and can even compete with some commercial production sources. I mainly do this for gold posts now if I need some and I don’t have commercial ones around. There was a time when I did it for silver poles, not really economical but it worked. Read more: how to build stairs down in fortnite
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