How To Make Candle Molds With Silicone
Video How to make a silicone candle mold Detailed instructions on the process of making a silicone rubber mold used to mold wax to make candles.
Supplies needed for the project:
Contents
- A model
- PlatSil® 73-15 . silicone mold rubber
- Pol-Ease® 2350 Sealer & Release Agent
- PolyPoxy® Quick Stick
- OPTIONAL: EasyFlo 60 . liquid resin
- Flexible clay
- Plywood (or other material for mold box)
- Drill
- screw
- Dry brush
- Poly Paddle or other mixing tool
- Mixing barrel
- Putty Knife, if necessary
- Cutter or Mold Key Knife
- Wick for the candle
- Candle wax
- Parrafin bath or other apparatus for melting wax
Read: how to make a silicone candle mold
Step 1: Choose the model
Select or create a model to replicate. The final wax candle will be a copy of this original pattern. Many candle makers sculpt their original models in clay, wood, or wax, or use computer-based options like 3-D printers and CNC routers to create their designs.
This glass model is hollow; however, we want the last candle to be solid, so we fill the pattern with wood and clay:Mold rubber will pick up every detail of the model, so the clay is carefully smoothed:
Step 2: Build the Mold Box and Protect the Model
To create a one-piece pour block mold, build a mold box or choose a suitable container to place your model in. Make sure that there is enough space between the model and the mold box wall to form the mold with the proper thickness. Leave about 1 inch space for the wall and bottom of the mold in this example. Plywood is being used to create the mold box. Porous material such as this must be sealed before liquid mold rubber is poured. Plywood will be sealed in Step 3 Some other possible options for mold box or mold container: Plexiglas®, plastic crates, PVC pipes, Sonotubes®, melamine coated chipboard (you can buy 24 inch mold box H directly from Polytek).Using a hole saw, we make a hole in the bottom panel of the mold box to hide this part of the pattern (we don’t want this overhang on the last candle):Fasten the model to the bottom board so it won’t float when the mold rubber is poured around. Using PolyPoxy® Quick Glue, a two-part, quick-setting epoxy adhesive, we glued the model to the table below:PolyPoxy® Quick Stick has a 1:1 mixing ratio and cures in 3-5 minutes.Read more: how to reheat olive garden bread | Top Q & AW When the epoxy is curing, build the walls of the mold box:
Step 3: Apply Sealer & Release Agents as needed & complete the model preparation
Apply appropriate sealants and/or release agents to the mold box. As mentioned before, the plywood used for this mold box is not sealed. We coat it with Pol-Ease® 2350, a mineral alcohol soluble white gasoline that acts as both a sealant and a release agent. No additional release agent required. When using a non-porous mold box, consider using Pol-Ease® 2500 Release Agent instead (Use this option when working with silicone rubber. Use Pol-Ease 2300 Release Agent when working with high polyurethane rubber). Not sure which release agent to use for your particular project? Our sealant selection guide & release agent can be helpful.Apply a release agent to the model. We also apply the Pol-Ease 2350 Sealer & Release Agent to the model itself. Pol-Ease® 2500 Release Agent (aerosol) is another option that can be used in this case (for use with silicone mold rubber).Allow enough time for the solvent in Pol-Ease 2350 to evaporate (~1 hour, depending on temperature and humidity) before moving on to the next steps. There are small gaps in the legs of this model, so we sealed that area with pliable clay (warmed to make it easier to apply). Other options for sealing include caulk and hot glue.Smooth and flatten the clay as best you can:Place the model in the mold box and fix the bottom board to the mold box wall:Place the mold box and model in the appropriate place to pour the liquid rubber:Seal the edges of the mold box with flexible clay to prevent the rubber from leaking to the outside of the box:Read more: how to build a hockey network
Step 4: Measure, mix and pour silicone rubber
The mold rubber chosen for this particular project was PlatSil® 73-15 Silicone Rubber.
- Silicone type: Hardened Platinum
- Mixing Ratio: 1A: 1B
- Shore hardness: A15
- Pouring time: 20 minutes
- Time required: 4-5 hours
- Color: Matte white
- Mixed Viscosity: 2,500 CP
NOTES ON HOW TO TREAT: Contamination from amines, sulfur, tin compounds, polyester resins, some 3D printed plastics and some other materials can cause cure inhibition in platinum cured silicone rubber, so please Make sure that your model and other materials in contact with silicone do not contain these inhibitors. It is best to perform a small test curing process on your model before casting the large mold. This particular mold requires approximately 10 lb of PlatSil 73-15 rubber (5 lb of Part A & 5 lb of Part B). Weigh Part B on a digital scale – we recommend pouring Part B first as it has a lower viscosity than Part A and is less likely to stick to the walls of the mixing tank: Weigh and weigh all of Part A in the same mixing container. Mix Part A and Part B thoroughly together, scraping the sides and bottom of the mixing bowl several times: Carefully pour the mixed rubber into the mold box. Pour into a corner and let the rubber rise. Do not pour rubber directly onto the model: PlatSil 73-15 can be turned off after 4 to 5 hours at room temperature. If a different rubber is being used, be sure to check the drying time of that particular rubber. Punching too early can cause permanent warping of the mold.
Step 5: Sell mold & cut mold (if needed)
Carefully remove the bottom panel of the mold box and the sides of the box. A putty knife can be helpful in this process: Depending on the shape of the model, the mold may have to be cut to remove the model and subsequent castings. We use a scalpel to cut an irregular pattern on one side of the mold (irregular patterns have been redesigned for better casting than straight cuts): Carefully remove the model from the mold: Make a small hole in the bottom of the mold to hold the wick later: This next step is completely optional. Before moving on to wax casting, we make a plastic copy of the original model just in case we need to make more molds at a later date (we broke the original glass model when we removed it). unloading). Wood board and tape are used to support the mold when casting (you can also use the original mold box for support): EasyFlo 60, a quick-setting polyurethane resin, is poured into a mold to replicate: This plastic can be resold in 15-30 minutes:
Step 6: Pour wax into the mold
Pass the wick through the hole created earlier: Temporarily tie a knot in the wick: Fix the wick above the pouring hole of the mold. Make sure it’s centered: Melt the wax with appropriate equipment and add dyes and perfumes if desired: Carefully pour the wax into the mold: Let the wax cool completely:
Step 7: Remove the candle from the mold
Carefully remove the candle from the mold: Cut the wick if necessary: Hundreds of candles can be created in this single mold. A finished candle as shown below: Read more: How to draw a shirt
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