How To Make An Axe Sheath

Video How to Make an Ax Shell Writer’s Note: This is a guest post from Michael Magnus. Transfer a finished project into your hands, appreciate the craftsmanship and what you’ve learned while making it, recall those feelings each time you use it… a certain meaning to them. That’s one of the reasons leather work can become so addictive. So today we are making a leather hip cover/case for your blade. While there are some modifications that can be made to personalize it, this guide is intended to keep things as simple and straightforward as possible so that those who have never touched raw leather before can succeed. . Let’s jump in!

Munition

Material

• Vegetable tanned leather. This project uses 6-7oz vegetable-tanned leather, available at your local leather retailer or online. A single shoulder will be more than enough to create some of these covers, however, you can do it with belly or scrap to minimize your first project investment. (Though you’ll quickly realize that good leather is worth the investment!) You’ll be able to buy 4-5 square feet of leather for under $30. Learn more about buying leather goods with this handy guide.
• Wax yarn. Just a variety of colors, depending on the look you’re trying to achieve. This project used white thread so as not to lose the natural properties of the skin. Wax thread is very strong, durable and stronger than traditional thread. Plus, it tends to stay in the needle a bit better.
• shoveling cement. There are contact cements developed specifically for leather, however, really any contact cement can be used for this project. Using contact cement to hold the skin in place for stitching will make your life infinitely easier.
• Rivet. This project only requires a single rivet, however, they are very convenient to have around for your various leather processing projects. You can buy a whole pack for cheap, not to mention it will be difficult to buy just a single rivet. In fact for this project, you could theoretically avoid the hand stitching altogether by assembling this project with just the studs. However, I personally like the look and strength that the stitching gives.

Tools

While it’s ideal to use the right tool for the right job, many of the leather tools mentioned in this project can be substituted for more common tools you may already have.

• Hard paper or light cardboard. To create a template.
• Pencil. To mark.
• Scissors or sheers. To cut out your pattern.
• Rakesticks. To write a mark on your skin.
• Utility knife. To cut your skin. Make sure you have a new blade.
• Maul. Important: Do not use metal hammers on metal tools. It can mold tool heads and shoot metal shrapnel. Polymer or cowhide mallets are ideal. Hard wood or rubber can also work, but these are a bit less effective.
• Punch or rotary punch drive. Used to punch holes in the skin.
• Safe beveler. For thin skin at puncture… safely.
• Chisel stitch. Get a 1/8″ (3mm) spacing tool with four prongs.
• Needle. To sew.
• Pliers. To save your fingers.
• rivet. To set rivets.
• Anvil. To set rivets.
• Wing splitter. To create a clean line around a curve.

Create templates

The first job to do is to create a pattern on paper or cardboard before cutting into the leather. Since most hatches and shafts will vary slightly in design, you’ll want to customize the template for your tool.To start, trace the shape of the tip collapsing on one side, leaving a gap where the handle is. Roll it back to mark an interval equal to the width of the butt of the hatch, add an additional half inch, then trace the other side of the hatch, mirroring the first image. This will give the cover’s original shape. Now that you have the basic shape, it’s important to add enough space around it to be able to sew the covers together. Outline about a 1/4-inch outline outside where you traced the blade over half of your pattern. You only need to do this move to the side, as it will be folded to ensure that the two halves are aligned.In addition to covering the blade, the design will also require a small prong on which the ax head rests to ensure that the stopper doesn’t slip out of your sheath. For this, add a small rectangle whose width and length is approximately the same as the width and length of the tip of the blade to the underside and near the bottom edge of the border, as shown above.Once you have the finished pattern for the ax half, fold the pattern over, match your original blade marks to ensure correct dimensions, then trace around the edge to create two matching halves. After they are marked, cut out the pattern.

Prepare the skin

Using an awl or something with a sharp point, lightly scratch the pattern border on the skin to mark for cutting. On the support tabs, mark the outside of the pattern (up in it) until just below where the butt of the hatch will rest. Tip: Although tempting, do not use a pen or marker for this step; Ink can bleed through the skin, leaving a permanent stain. Using a sharp utility knife or leather scissors, cut off the sample. You’ll also want to cut the skin to where you marked your tabs. Read more: How to win a war in the hood Tip: If you have a small round leather punch, use it on the inside end of the previous crimping lines. cutting. Not only will it give you a cleaner cut, but round cuts are much less likely to tear.Ski leather is a process in which the leather is thinned, usually at an angle, to reduce the thickness for sewing and create a cleaner edge. You’ll want to thin the leather to about half its thickness along the edge of the blade, as well as a few inches along the underside of the sheath where it will be sewn together. When sliding the skin, you’ll have much more success running the blade at a 45-degree angle rather than perpendicular.

More belt loops

To prepare the leather for the belt loop, cut a 2 × 3.5 inch rectangular piece of leather from the scrap. Tip: Before attaching the belt loop, first determine which side you want to wear it on. Ideally, the blade should point backwards. The smooth side of the leather on the upholstery should face up and the rough side should face up over the loop. Align the bottom edge of the rectangle to about half an inch from the top of the cover, with the side edge roughly aligned with the edge of the opposite tab (again, as shown above). will use a tool called a chisel – the four prongs search engine in the image. To ensure the leather does not slip while punching, first apply a thin line of contact cement along the edge of where both pieces will be attached. for a few minutes until it is sticky but not damp. Fix the two pieces together where they come into contact with the cement for a strong bond. Your skin is ready to punch the holes. Start with your chisel about an eighth of an inch from the sides and start punching holes (as shown above). To ensure even spacing, you will overlap the last hole, forming a cluster of three holes at a time along the width of the rectangular piece. of the topic.For this project, we’ll be using what’s known as a saddle stitch, which provides a much stronger stitch than a sewing machine’s lock stitch. Secure a needle to each side of the thread, leaving about two inches for the tail. Thread a needle through one of the end holes and adjust the thread to an equal number of positions on each side. pattern as you sew. For a visual look at this, watch the video below: After you’ve stitched through the last hole on each side, stitch back the two holes to lock the stitch in place. Pull each strand through the back and cut them flat with your project.Note: When going through the stitch for the second time, it may be a little tight. Pliers can be useful for leverage. Read more: how to get rid of pinworms in horsesFold the leather flap back, leaving about half an inch from the bottom, and repeat the process. Apply a thin line of cement where they meet to hold the leather in place, punch your holes in the leather, do the saddle stitch and finally, sew the two holes together, cut the thread at the back.

Set rivets

Next, you’ll want to create a seat for the ax head to rest on. To do this, use a 1/8″ drive punch to place a hole in each tab, about 1/4″ from the outside edge. This will allow the two tabs to be attached with rivets. A rivet is a short metal pin designed to join or fasten two pieces of leather together. It has a domed cap so the pin expands on impact to keep it in place.Stack the pieces of leather, pressing the pin through the overlapping holes from the rough side of the leather so that the domed lid can be glued in from the outside. To set the studs in place, place the flat side of the hardware on a firm surface, such as a small anvil, then secure the studs in place by using a mallet to secure the studs. Domed.

Finish the cover

To sew the outside of your sheath, you should first draw a line 1/8 from the edge. A tool like the wing splitter pictured above does this quickly. Mark the end of the blade, as well as a few inches along the bottom. Tip: Many of the hatch handles on the bottom are wider than the top to balance the weight. When marking your seam for the bottom, make sure you leave enough room for the bottom of the handle to easily slip through the opening.Following the same saddle stitching process as before, use contact cement along the edges that you are fixing, to hold in place for the punching. Starting at the intersection angle, start your punch 1/8 inch from the edge of both sides and work your way up to the blade tip of the sheath, followed by the underside of the blade. Using a continuous piece of thread for the line, start stitching at the top corner of the hatch blade, work around the corner, along the bottom several inches, and then back to the two holes to lock the stitch in place.You can add oil to treat leather, but be aware that it will darken the leather. To avoid glossing over your skin, apply in thin, even layers. When away from teaching or with his family, Magnus promotes the art of leathermaking as a leisure leather historian and content creator with the Elktracks Studio Foundation.

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