How To Make A Wooden Spoon With Power Tools
This useful spoon came to my family the way my mother-in-law said a farmer has been making since she was a little girl in Minnesota. In my book, since she was 85 years old, that makes it an antique spoon. It seems like it’s been around for a long time, but I was pleasantly surprised to find that it is a very handy tool in the modern kitchen. It’s long enough to stir a deep pot, deep enough to serve as a ladle, and thin at the edge to take a sip of soup. The flat top on the bowl is great for sautéing and taking the last bits out of the pan, like a spoon.I wanted to copy the design, but it needed a quick finish for my daughter’s housewarming gift, so I came up with some shortcuts. Power is used for most aspects of this project, but if you don’t have specific tools you can always do some carving by hand. This is meant to be a working spoon and not just for decoration, but this handle is nice and flat if you want to add a wooden design or some carving. about the new home and the date. It worked so well as a housewarming gift that I made another one for my son when he moved house, with that couple’s info written on the spoon. .
2. Start with the template
Contents
1. Duplicate the pattern and crop it around the outside to make it easier to position on the board. Choose a board that is flat and has square edges, or make your board square using a laminator or hand plane. Place the top pattern on the board to take advantage of the grain and color or to avoid bad marks on the wood. Mark around the pattern with an indelible marker that will show up when you cut the pattern out.
Move the pattern onto the board with a bold line
3. Remove the space:
4. Cut out the top pattern with your circular saw.
Place your fingers away from the path of the blade when using a circular saw to cut drums. If you don’t have a circular saw, a scroll saw will work just fine. Alternatively, you could use a jigsaw, but that would be difficult and a bit dangerous. A coping saw will also work and it has the added advantage of building your arm muscles.
4. Drill spoon:
5. Of course, you can carve this spoon without using a drill, but it’s a lot easier to carve a bowl with most of the wood removed. Use a punch drill and a Forstner 2 drill to make the marked hole in the pattern. Use tongs to hold the spatula in place for drilling unless you are stronger than a horse. Drill presses usually have a capacity of 1 HP, and without clamps, you won’t be able to keep the large workpiece from spinning out of your hand. Set your depth gauge to drill just 3/8″ into the gap.
Drill a 2-inch hole in the marked location. The point of the Forstner bit will go 1/8 inch into the empty space. It should end in 1/2 ″ from the bottom. This point will remind us when to stop as we are carving into the bowl.
5. Cut the bowl and spoon:
6. Stick the pieces together with heavy duty double-sided tape.
Glue the parts together as before. In this photo, the pieces are staggered to show how they fit together, but it’s a good idea to place them on the workbench so that they’re completely flat like the board from which they were cut. It’s a good smack with your carved mallet to make sure the pieces stick together. Move the side pattern to the side of the board.Read more: how to crack photoshop cc 2015 | Top Q&A
The side pattern is transferred to the side of the board. Make sure you have oriented the pattern in the correct direction and that the best side of the board will be on top of the spoon.8. Helpful hints: Anytime you need to saw a tall, thin piece of wood, like this project, you need to use a stabilizer block to help keep the board stable and square with the tabletop.
Use stable block9. Attach a square block of wood to one side of the board (with tape, again) at the same level as the side that will rest on the table top of the saw. This block will help hold the board upright as you cut the side and give your guide fingers a safe place to hold. Make sure that the circular saw blade and the board are both square to the tabletop, and carefully cut the side. Make your final cut on the side with the stabilizer block.
DO NOT DO THIS: Cutting without a stabilizer block can damage the drum unless you are very careful and have a lot of experience in using a circular saw. It can also lead to a run with the blade. It only takes a minute to mount a stabilizer block for your safety and success.
6. Carved spoon bowl:
10. It helps if you have a good way to hold the space for engraving. Clip it securely to a desk or clip it with a bench cover like I have here.
Clamp and Engrave: Hold the scraper under the handle for easier clamping and keep your carving level. Make shallow cuts, using a table knife or cleaver, on the line of the inner edge of the spoon bowl. Then engrave a curve from these stops down to the Forstner bit cutout using the 3/4 ″ -wide #9 gouge.
Engrave from the inside edge of the bowl to the edge of the bore. Now switch to bowl gouging and continue making gentle, curved cuts until the Forstner drill’s point hole is hollowed out and has a smooth curve around the inside of the spoon’s bowl.
Use a bowl cutter to complete the hand carving of the bowl and spoon.11. Helpful hints: Use the side of the spoon bowl as a pivot point to slide the spoon hole when you remove the wood from the bowl. Just take a little wood at a time or you risk having to pry out more wood than you intended. Use a sizable bull-nose tungsten carbide bit to complete the shaping of the inside of the bowl.
The two-handed handle gives you a lot of control
7. Rough shape for the back of the spoon:
13. You can shape the back of a spoon using a manual or electric carving tool, but you’ll be surprised how quickly and easily it can be done with a sander 60 grit sanding belt and belt. There will be a lot of dust, so you’ll want to do this outside or use a good vacuum cleaner. In either case, wear a good dust mask to keep dust out of your lungs. If you do not have a fixed belt sander, you can use a portable machine if it is fixed, upside down, in a suction hose.14. WARNING: Using a freehand belt grinder is an inherently dangerous technique, but box-saw makers do it all the time. It takes a bit of experience to know exactly how much pressure is applied to the piece and how to approach the turning belt. Always touch the bottom end of the piece of wood to the belt first, then immediately with the rest of the piece of wood. You need to hold the wood firmly but gently touch the straps. Safety first: Make sure you always know the position of your fingers. While a belt sander is not as dangerous as some other power tools in the store, it can remove a lot of skin in a short time. Hold the empty spoon firmly but not carefully, so you can skip it if there is a problem. You can always excise a new blank, but regrowing your skin is a different story. Do not leave space on the table, or you will not be able to manipulate it to bend the back of the spoon. Read more: How to lace jordan 1
Shape the back of the bowl and spoon.16. Then, using the end of the belt roller, shape the spoon neck.
Spoon Neck Shape Finish by rounding the back of the handle from the centerline to the front plane, in a “U” shape. Do not overdo this belt sanding. The goal is to remove excess wood and establish planes that are close to the final shape, but not achieve a sandy finish. It is too easy to sand important pieces of wood with such a fast machine.17. The photo below was taken with half of the work done and half still square. Check regularly to make sure you’re not removing some of the wood you’ll need when you do final shaping/sanding. For now, keep the bowl thickness of the spoon at about 3/16″.
The reverse side of the spoon has been sanded to shape. The right side is not shaped yet.
8. Finish shaping the spoon:
18. Use the grinding edge again to smooth the planes created by the belt grinder.
Here, I’m comparing the new spoon with the old one to make sure I’m getting the right shape.
Compare spoons.
9. Make the spoon symmetrical and consistent:
19. Unfortunately I don’t know of any way to effectively sand the inside of the bowl – except by hand. It’s a tough job, but someone has to do it. Think of it as the “Zen of Sanding” and get to work. Start with a 50-grit sheet of paper and work your way through 100, 150, 180 and 220 grats. If you have any fingerprints left behind when you’re done, you may need to redo it again.
10. Finish sanding:
20. For exterior surfaces, there is nothing better than a “Tootsie-roll” sander. Again, you’ll need to work your way from coarse to fine sandpaper, but this should be easier at your fingertips.
The “Tootsie-roll” sander saves fingertips21. Helpful hints: When you have to sand a lot, keep a directional light nearby. When you think you’re done with a piece of sandpaper, wipe off the sandpaper and look closely in the angled light for the scratches it leaves on the wood. If there are any deeper scratches, you’ll need to sand them down until they’re all gone before moving on to the next stone. If you leave those scratches on the wood, you will only polish the wood between the scratches as you sand with a finer grain.
Looking at the sanding work in direct light reveals irregularities in this piece of mahogany. The center part is completely smooth, while the outer edges are still rough and the spoon is finished, viewed from above. It measures 11 x 3 x 7/8 ″ .22. Once you have the perfect 220-grain finish, spend a few more minutes manual sanding with 320-grain sandpaper followed by 400 and 600-grain. This final sanding will really bring out the stunning, aka “cat’s-eye” look on the envisioned maple.
11. Finishing:
23. Finished spoons can be finished with non-toxic oils such as mineral oil, meat block or walnut oil. Maintenance of this kitchen tool is to change the oil whenever it looks dry. Alternatively, it can be finished with a salad bowl finish. This spoon has been finished with butcher block oil. Of course, it’s not dishwasher safe, but it’s been ready for years to scoop oatmeal and stir Bok Choy.
Finished spoon, bottom view. It is made from shaped maple with an oiled finish. Read more: how to merge cc sims 4
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