How To Make A Throttle Cable

Making your own throttle, clutch, or brake lines can be really rewarding. It allows you to customize your bike any way you want without having to buy expensive factory cables. But if you don’t know the tricks of the trade, it can be more frustrating than rewarding. There’s a lot more to it than you have to when it comes to making your own cables, so here’s a pretty long monologue about making your own cables. Don’t worry, there are some tips and tricks that are easy to memorize. So the next time you try to make your own cables, you will surely succeed.

Measure, measure, then check your measurements and check again before you cut the cable. You don’t want to make the new mistake of cutting a cable and ending up with a long or short cable. So it pays to be careful.

Get the right parts before you start. Make sure you have the correct solder, good quality flux, and some spare supplies in case you screw up. Furthermore, you will need a small butane torch or an old-fashioned solder gun and cleaning solution.

Do not overheat the cable or connector. Yes, you need some heat to braid the cable ends to the cable. But if it is red, the end of the cable will have to be cut off because it becomes brittle and you will have to toss it and start over.

Reassemble your cable and check dimensions before soldering. Yes, measure again to make sure the cable is the correct length. Better safe than sorry.

Be careful not to fray the cut end of the cable. If you are trying to cut the internal cable with an older wire cutter than change, you will be screwing the cable ends. So use a sharp/new wire cutter to cut the cable. Of course, the dremel or other small power tool is a good alternative.

Welding practice. Practice practice and practice. Make sure you know how to solder and apply heat to the cable. So use a new cut of cable or practice on an old cable.

Begin:

The basic principles for cable fabrication apply to any type of cable. So you can use these same techniques to craft any type of cable on a motorcycle – whether it’s a brake, clutch, or gearshift cable. The first way is to find an assembled cable that closely resembles what you are looking for. With some minor modifications you can apply this to your project and you will save a bit of time and money. Barnett is one of the famous manufacturers of cables for Harley-Davidson motorcycles. They have a wide range of cables and might be something close to what you are looking for. Read more: how to get a parakeet like you The second way is to make these cables completely yourself. Besides tons of complete cables, Barnett has tons of parts to help you build your custom cables. Internal and external cables can be used for your custom cable, and there are many different ways to tailor this cable to your controls. The best place to start is with old cables that don’t match your required construction or need replacing. If it is intact and you need to replace the old cable exactly, having the old cable will give you a lot of important information. With a few quick measurements, you will know the overall length of the cable, the outer cable length and the free length. You will also be able to identify what components you need to build the cable, for example, fittings, elbows, regulators, etc. If they are in good condition, you can also get some accessories from the old cable. . It is also helpful to know the parts of the cable:

• The cable inside is the longest cable. In this day and age, it should be braided with stainless steel. You don’t want a cable that can rust on you. This is the part you will solder your accessories to.
• The external cable (sheath) protects the cable inside from damage. Good cable is lined with Teflon. This creates less friction between the cable and the sheath. The chance of a damaged cable is also less.
• The elbow sometimes used to keep cables from being bent the wrong way or kinked. Elbows can be found attached to the top of the cabin or where cables enter the throttle assembly. The elbows are usually fitted with a cable adjuster nut for use in slightly extending the cable.
• The cap mounted on one or in some cases, both ends of the cable to keep the plastic coating from peeling off.
• Adjuster can be inserted into the center or either end of the cable. On the BMW cable pictured above, the cable regulator is located at the top of the carburetor.
• Final Accessories come in many shapes and sizes. The most popular are ball fittings, barrel fittings, nipples and pears – and they come in a variety of sizes. The image on the right shows a set of accessories from Niche Cycle.

Heat source That’s enough about the basics. It’s time to get started with your custom cables. First of all a good heat source for soldering on your fittings. The fastest way is to use a small torch. These will heat up your cable at lightning speed but also run the risk of overheating the cable. Once you have overheated the cable, the overheated part becomes useless and must be cut off. An alternative is the old-fashioned heavy duty welding gun. This process will take a little longer to heat up the cable enough to cause solder to melt but the changes of the superheat are barely reduced. Don’t try this with a small Weller torch as it won’t generate enough heat.Solder and fluxRead more: how to make a burlap snowman wreath The next thing is to find a solder and flux. If you buy cheap or the wrong throughput for the cable you require, you won’t get the right flow and/or bonding between the cable and the accessory. Don’t be fooled by this and take shortcuts or you’ll waste cables. Flux performs three important functions: It chemically cleans the metal surface to aid the flow of filler metal through the base metal (in our case, the solder), it helps to transfer heat from the torch to the metal surface and aid in the removal of metal oxides that prevent bonding. Go to your local hardware store and get some proper advice on good solders and fluxes. I’m no chemist but what I do know is that the standard flux/solder for your copper tubes in kitch won’t hold up when you brake at full speed.Time for some action, how to solderAssuming you’ve checked, double-checked, and pre-assembled your cable, it’s time to fix it up and solder the accessories. Flux can clean a lot of grease/scum on your cable but you’re better off using a good degreaser like brake cleaner to start with. Make sure it’s some kind of cleaner that won’t catch fire as that will cause a lot of other problems :).Welding step by stepRead more: Import used cars directly from Japan

Clip or place the cable where it can sit at least a few inches above your work surface. You don’t want to set anything on fire! You also need to heat the cable evenly from top to bottom. If you are using a bare flame torch, make sure there are no flammable chemicals around.

Keep the cable clean – If you have touched the cable with an oily finger or placed it somewhere where oil or silicone may be present, clean it again.

Slide your clean connector onto the cable. Carefully slide the coupling over the cable and make sure you don’t contaminate the cable again with greasy hands.

Dot the cable with a few drops of flux using Q-tip. Or, if you have a large enough bottle, you can dip the cable end into the bottle. Do not use your fingers to transmit throughput on the cable. Your fingers retain body oil which will cause the cable to reject the solder and you don’t want that to stick to your fingers. It is poisonous and poisonous.

Heat the cable slowly and carefully. Start with the flame about 15 cm away and work it up slowly to heat only the cable. Do not expose the nipple or adapter to direct heat and be careful not to overheat the cable – this can happen very quickly! If the cable glows red or becomes black, you’ll have to cut both the outer and inner cables and start over (that’s if you have enough room on the cable). That’s why I recommend practicing on a bit of leftover cable first. Ideally, you should heat the cable to about 180 degrees. Do not heat the nipple. Observe what happens with magnetic flux. When it starts to bubble, touch the tip of the solder to the nipple and the flux will immediately draw the solder in. Let the solder cool completely for a few minutes before you try to touch it.

Cable test. When the cable has cooled completely, grasp the end of the connector with a clamp. Remember that these fittings are soft brass, so don’t clamp too tight or you’ll damage it! Give the joint a good pull. If it still turns on, you have successfully soldered the cable and you are ready for your next one.

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