How To Make A Pumpkin Head
Video How to make a pumpkin headHere’s what we heard, over and over again last night: “Oh, is that real— God, those are real pumpkins!” Reading: how to make a pumpkin head It’s not as easy as we think. Not light either. But here’s how to do it. 
First, shop. This outfit works best with some degree of advance planning. On the most obvious level, you need to find a pumpkin that fits your head. That means (1) it needs to be bigger than your head – a little bigger, actually – and (2) has an aspect ratio that’s a bit like your head shape. For most people, that means it needs to be slightly taller than it is wide. On the other hand, large squashes are heavy. Really heavy. So, for you to be able to wear the costume for a long time, it is optimal to choose a pumpkin that is just large enough. You can use a cloth tape measure to estimate the size of the pumpkin you need. As a general rule, measure the circumference around your head (the tip of your nose around the back of your head) and add 12 inches to get a good starting point. (Basically, that number takes into account the width of your head plus two inches the thickness of the pumpkin skin.) Once you’ve got an estimate, bring a cloth tape measure with you when you go shopping. Finding the perfect pumpkin can involve multiple pumpkin suppliers and should be done while the selection of pumpkin lights is still good; Waiting until the last minute before Halloween runs the risk of not having any suitable pumpkins for sale. Another thing to note is that the inside of the pumpkin is not exactly the same. You need pumpkins that are fresh (not rotten or mushy) and hopefully lighter in weight than the ones that are available. You should also consider buying a few good pumpkins to work with. We’ve carved more pumpkins than we need and are grateful to have the extra choice of pumpkins that work best for each of us.
For our head, we found that the minimum equatorial circumference needed was about 36 inches. The pole-to-pole circumference needs to be at least a few inches larger in most cases—about 40 inches worked well for us. Of course, your head size may vary.
Next, carving. There are actually two stages to carving: hollowing out the shell and cutting the strokes into the face. Ideally, start carving—and complete the hollowing out—night before you put on your costume, to give your pumpkin time to air out before you put it on. Faces can be added at the last minute, so that the strokes will appear fresh and sharp.
To start hollowing out, mark a circle slightly larger than your neck size on the base of the pumpkin and cut off that area. Serrated steak knives are great for this part. Scoop most of the pumpkin “guts” out of the hole in the bottom.
Now, the hard and important part: Thin the skin of the squash to reduce the weight and increase the space inside. Read more: multicolor silkscreen printing Many of these tools can be used, from stiff spoons to knives and balers. A great tool for smooth internal cuts is this melon scraper. And, the two best tools we’ve found for the ultimate thinning of the inner wall are this special butter scraper and ice cream scoop, which is made of hardened steel and curls strips of pumpkin rind inside like like butter. so most of the shell down to about ¾ – 1 thick can be obtained. Don’t forget that you also need to thinly grate the inside of the pumpkin. If it’s still heavy after this stage, go ahead and thin it to about ½ – ¾” thick around the walls.
To really fit your head inside, you’ll need to cut off part of the back quadrant of the pumpkin. You can cut off this part and discard it, or save it so that it can be reattached (when the pumpkin is already on top of you), such as with a bamboo skewer. you will need to decide which side will be the front and back. In general, the flat or bumpy side of a squash facing the ground when growing will make a pretty good backside. Clean straight cut to give a wide surface for future reassembly.
Next, check the fit. The inside of your pumpkin can be quite wet at this stage, so you can use a towel or paper towel to absorb excess moisture from the pumpkin’s surface. You can also use a shower cap or plastic bag over your hair (do not cover the entire head) to protect your (hairy and/or bald) head from direct contact. , so approach this stage carefully. Go slowly and be ready to back off at the first sign that you don’t fit or that you won’t be able to breathe. And it’s important to have someone else on hand to help you if something goes wrong. It may take a few squashes to find the perfect fit, and your squash may need to be smoothed or thinned in places for a more comfortable feel. Make sure your neck has enough room to move, there’s enough ventilation, and that your jaw can move freely as well.
Inner padding: You’ll need some inner padding to protect the top of your head, where the pumpkin rests. We looked at some pretty sophisticated interior liners to provide a moisture barrier and hold the pumpkin in place, but it turns out that just a simple foam pad is enough. Tuck it into the top of the pumpkin and double check the fit. If it’s not padded enough (heavier pumpkins may need more padding), add another one. At this point, remove the padding and (if applicable) the back of the squash. Set both pieces aside and let your pumpkin dry for a few hours, and ideally overnight, before you plan to wear it.
Read more: how to get a snapchat on a school chromebook Replace the pad, place the pumpkin on top, and (if using) hold the back pad in place so you can determine where your eyeholes will go through. You can point out their reliable location by pointing your finger at the eye from the outside of the pumpkin. (Turns out you can do this pretty well, even if you have a funny thing on your mind.) Have your friends (who are there to make sure you don’t suffocate) mark locations with dots . Repeat a few times to get a series of marks for best results. You can use a knife or apple peeler to make initial holes in the eye positions to check if you need any fine-tuning. are not. After you have completed the initial eyehole fit test, sketch out the face of the lantern and carve out the final details. Insert bamboo skewers into several positions to keep them in place. Slide most of the lines out so they’re ready to insert when you put it on.
Any good “monster” costume is made much more creepy by not revealing human skin. Most Halloween costume stores have a black “invisible” mask, which is a hood with a black mesh screen that you can see through. They tend to be a bit too short to fully cover the neck.
This lycra hood, sold at scuba diving stores, solved the neck problem.
Combined with the hood, it helps cover the entire neck to fit any collar, and covers the face to make it impossible for humans to see under the lantern. A cutout on the mask at the chin also allows access to the straw, making it possible to drink milkshakes while wearing the costume. pumpkin on your head over the hood, and (if using) glue the back in place with bamboo skewers.
Final detail: We’ve chosen two very different faces on our two pumpkins – one devious but fun, and one a bit more intimidating. A little touch like a hat can have an amazing effect in conveying gender or status. Hats can be held in place with pins, skewers or pins. A staple gun works well on the exterior of a pumpkin.
Finally, vintage clothing completes the look, with fingerless “skeleton” gloves for a spooky feel. You can find more costume projects in our Halloween Project Archive. Read more: Warning: mysqli_query(): (HY000/1194): Table ‘wp_options’ is marked as faulty and in need of repair in /home/macenstein/public_html/default/wp-includes/wp-db.php on line 2007 Warning: mysqli_query(): (HY000/1194): Table ‘wp_options’ is marked as corrupted and needs to be repaired in /home/macenstein/public_html/default/wp-includes/wp-db. php on line 2007
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