How To Install A Replacement Window In A Brick House

Synopsis: While window replacement has become a fairly standard remodeling job, it can still present challenges, especially when the window to be replaced is within a brick wall. In this article, veteran remodeling contractor Mike Sloggatt describes his process for this complex project. To begin, Sloggatt prepares for the opening, taking care with the removal of the old window. Next, he marked the rough opening and made sure to integrate the new wall covering with the existing construction paper. Sloggatt’s next step is to integrate the new window with the wall. First, he installed the windows, using caulk and foam to seal the air and weather; then he adds an extra layer of sealing for even more protection. Finally, Sloggatt installed a site-built door sill. In my 30+ years as a remodeling contractor, I’ve replaced hundreds of windows. The difficulties of window replacement vary from project to project, but one thing is for sure: Replacing homes with brick veneer is one of the most challenging. Why? Replacing brick openings is difficult and expensive, and integrating a new window into a home’s existing weather barrier is much more difficult when a brick wall is present. are two ways to get a new window in an existing open cell. An easier, less expensive option is a replacement window that only replaces the balancer and guardrail system. With full frame replacement, the entire window, including the frame, is replaced. Although replacement windows are cheaper and easier to install, why choose to replace the entire frame? If the frame is rotting or infested with insects, a better approach is a full frame. In addition, if there is evidence of water penetration around an open window, replacing the entire frame allows you to find out what is going on and gives you access to repair it. The windows in this house, which may be from the 1950s, are so rotten that replacing the entire frame is the only sensible way to go. You no longer have to change the masonry openings or pad the hole with decorations to make the stock window fit. The only caveat is that you will want to double and triple check all relevant measurements before ordering the unit, because getting the wrong size is a costly mistake. Your window dealer or the manufacturer’s website is a good place to look for instructions on proper measuring. Also, custom window sizes may have longer delivery times than stock sizes, so ask about delivery times when ordering. The nail fins are covered with a flat paint that matches the other existing windows of the house. The result is a new energy-efficient window that matches older units in the home. The first step in any window replacement project is to remove the old window. You want to get rid of old windows as quickly as possible, but a slow approach means you’re less likely to damage the plaster and finish around the window. On this house, the internal plaster was installed behind the window and bolted to the window frame. I couldn’t have known this before I started removing the old window frames, and ripping the windows would likely result in significant plaster damage and a much larger, higher-cost project for the homeowner, and I have a headache.

Preparing for Opening

Drag the windowStart by removing the shield, leveling system, and storm window. Then cut the frame into pieces and pry them off. Here, the author is cutting the nails that attach the 1x wall coverings to the window frames. This step avoids damage to the house’s existing #30 felt weatherproofing when these sections are removed. Think strategicallyTake extra care when pulling old window frames so you don’t damage the existing plaster or drywall. On this house, plaster is hammered into the window frames, so the author cuts the frame into several parts and pulls them out one by one. Exposing the weather barrierThe most important part of window replacement is integrating the new window with existing felt or upholstery. Unfortunately, masonry openings often have patches of grout around the opening that must be removed before you can integrate new flashing materials. Use an angle grinder and chisel to remove grout without cutting or tearing the construction paper. Establish a preliminary openingA combination of 1x and 2x wood is used to shrink the frame to match the specified raw opening of the window. The smaller opening allows the nailed flange of the window to conform to the masonry. Keeping the nailing flange intact makes window shutter easier and maintains the manufacturer’s warranty.

Mark the rudimentary opening

Integrate new wall coverings with existing construction paper

CoverRead more: how to train cats to use an outside bathroom Since there’s no room behind the tile to apply a weather barrier to the covers, the author covered the stickers with thin self-adhesive tape prior to installation they. Slide in the sheathMade from 3⁄4-in. stocks, patches surround the new open area placed behind the existing 12-in weather barrier. drywall knife. The knife helps retain the old felt while the stickers are pushed into the back of it. Leave a pat on the headThe patch at the top of the gap has an extra piece of flashing tape. The release paper is left on the lid so that the top flange of the window and top cover can be hidden under the cover, integrating them into the house’s drainage plane.

Create a site-built door sill

Expanding the Weather BarrierFlashing aluminum extends the weather resistance barrier all the way to the new sub-layer. The flash is overlaid with existing felt and secured in place with aluminum trim studs. Loose covers of flashing tape in the corners of the opening will eventually coat the flashing door sill. Make a back damA dam at the back prevents water from entering the house. A vinyl wall trim (usually used to protect papered exterior corners on walls) makes for a great low profile rear fender. It is temporarily held in place with flashing tape until it can be covered by the flashing flexible door sill. Sill Pan prevents waterAfter removing the release paper, the author carefully placed in a piece of DuPont FlexWrap like a flashing door sill. When the sill made contact with the jack studs, he made sure the flashing corners were pressed firmly into the hole so that they formed a tight 90° angle. Otherwise, the window frame may cut through the flickering pan when the window is pushed into the opening slot.One more blow to the stormTo prevent wind-blown rain under the window and behind the brick, you should install a windscreen over the tile base. This self-adhesive, foil-sided flashing pad will then be cut flat. While it’s a good idea everywhere, this detail is especially important for second-story windows because the condition (or even existence) of the underlying weather barrier cannot be known. Windows.

Window settings

Caulk The Nailing FlangeThe author put a thick bead of sealant on the window face and nailed the flange on top. The bottom has no grooves so that water can seep in and out. It is important that the sealant and sealant be compatible because some solvent-based sealants attack some flashing tapes. With the frame resting on the raw sill and the raw opening in the center, tilt the window slowly into position. With the window centered when open, use two 11⁄4-in windows. pan head screw to secure the nailed flange. Shim The JambsRead more: Is Chrome Buffer paintable? It is important to straighten the frame before fully attaching the nailing flange to the outside; otherwise the window will not work smoothly. Once the unit is polished, complete the fastening of the nailing flanges — all holes for high winds, every other in other places. Foaming DistanceThe minimum expansion window foam is used to seal the gap between the window frame and the opening. At the bottom, the author only fills an inch or so along the inside face of the opening. Unique foam particles block air without stagnation of water. Flash FlangeCover the side flanges and then the top flange with foil face masking tape. The adhesive of foil tape is less durable, so it’s easier to stick the tape behind the brick. Glue its top edge under the cap created with the first layer of flashing tape applied to the cover pieces.

Additional sealing for extra coverage

Cover the dropperA layer of foil tape is installed on top of the strobe head that integrates the strobe head into the drain plane. The top edge of the self-adhesive patch is hidden under the remaining cap in the weather-resistant tape that covers the patch. Slide on the flashing headA curved L-shaped flasher with a metal brake spills water onto the housing. Its vertical legs are hidden under the left wing in weatherproof tape that also shields the flashing overhead paper tape. Friction holds it while the case fits underneath. Install CoverMade from portable PVC, the case assembled in place has corners secured with pocket screws. To make installation easier, the stainless steel decorative head screws are started in stock. The case is under 1⁄4 in to allow for the 1⁄8 in. joints around the circumference. Seal And Trim The Storm FlapSealant underneath the storm vane keeps it in place and prevents wind-blown water underneath. The cover is an additional layer of insurance against water ingress and maintains the free-draining properties of other flashing materials. Caulk The TrimThe final step is to attach the cover to the window frames and tiles with window and door glue. The space above the head cover and the drain hole at the bottom remain free of scale, allowing water to seep out. For more pictures and details on window replacement in tiled homes, click the View PDF button below. Read more: How to get rid of bass fret buzz

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