How To Install A Fishfinder On A Fishing Boat

You say you’ve read Five Tips for Choosing a New Fishing Machine, you’ve picked up a new unit, you have a boat sitting in your driveway and you want to be able to see anglers in the distance. 1000 yards? Want to be able to tell the difference between a hitter and a point when passing that drop? Do you insist on being able to accurately count the number of bunkers in a school? Okay, maybe we should ask a little bit about our fish hunters in this day and age. But they represent one of the most important fishing tools in our arsenal. And whether you’ve just bought a new boat or want to upgrade an old stilt machine, installing a new fishing reel is a project many of us will attempt at one time or another. . While this is a relatively simple task, it can be a bit daunting – especially when it’s time to drill a hole in your helm and/or hull. So follow these steps to make sure your audio player installation is going properly.Will you disassemble your fish machine or use the two-bike installation method?

Mount the fish filter flat

First things first: If you have a new boat and are in doubt about your ability to cheat, rather than risk throwing your dashboard in the trash, it’s better to entrust this job to a professional. The job starts with choosing the right location for your main unit. This is mandatory, because you need to ensure plenty of depth behind it as well as enough space on the steering wheel. The most common mistake people make is not making sure that there are no accessories or wires behind the dash, in the spot where they are about to cut. In fact, sawing before clearance verification can lead to serious problems (ahem). Take the measurements carefully. Twice. Okay, maybe three times. Once you’ve chosen your position, use masking tape to secure the cut pattern to the dash. Use a pencil to trace the pattern directly onto the fiberglass. Then, using your drill, open a pilot hole for your saw blade in one corner of the pattern. Make sure to use a drill bit large enough to allow the entire blade to go through the hole. Next, insert your jigsaw blade into the hole and cut open the dash, according to the dimensions of the pattern. TIP: Run both saw and drill at full speed; Cutting slowly will only encourage the bit and/or blade to pick up and break the gel. Next, sprinkle a bead of 3M 4200 Fast Cure glue/glue around the perimeter of the cut. (Note: some people prefer to use silicone as a sealant in this situation. Silicon will be easier to remove in the future, however, it is more likely to deteriorate over time and may leave water in contact. seep through the pad at some point.. Many electronics installers would argue this point and stick with silicon but in our experience the 4200’s long-term reliability makes it worth it skip). Add blobs of sticky goop on top of the mounting holes. Then drop the device into the cut and screw it into place.

Binacle Mounting fish detector

What about binnacle (top) mounted device? On boats with little flat assembly space, this can be necessary and the job is a lot easier – just drill four holes for the binnacle holder, run a bead of sealant, screw the binnacle in place and drill an additional hole for power transmission and conversion wire through a clamshell coupling. But this installation technique exposes the device to the elements and theft. It can also partially block your view through the windshield. In most cases, if space is available, flush mounting is the superior method.

Attach the fish detector probe

Should you drill a hole in the bottom of your boat to fit an adapter all the way through the hull, or will you install an adapter to fool around? That depends on your boat. The see-through housing is a must-have for boats in the water, because turbulence created by the wind will damage the unit’s performance if the transducer behind the gear is running. Horizontal boats and offshore boats can go both ways. Historically, hulls have offered the best performance, and in many cases that is still true today, but modern transom-mounts have gotten significantly better in recent years. Add to that the fact that many side-scan or 3D units are more or less designed with transom mounts in mind, and it is also possible that on many small boats passing through the hull is not a good choice because most of the hull The train is out of the water when running. Finally, consider that convertible mounts are obviously a lot easier to install. For all these reasons, most of us unit installers will have to deal with transom mounting situations. All that said, what if taking the see-through train is the best move in your particular case? Due to the significant risks involved in drilling a large hole in the bottom of your boat, we strongly recommend that you leave this job to a professional. The most important element of a switch mount installation is the selection of the transducer location. Crouch behind the crane, looking for an area as deep in the hull as possible, with no tethers, intakes or other items in front. Any item like this disturbs the water flow, creating turbulence and reducing the performance of the fishfinder. adapter about 1/8 inch below the running surface of the hull. For those looking sideways, the placement will depend a bit on the manufacturers. Some are designed with a flat top surface and a long, rounded bottom that needs to be sunken for side-searching. Others have a seam that can be used to effectively locate water lines. Either way, follow the manufacturer’s instructions on how far to submerge the probe and remember that the waterline, not the boat’s waterline, matters. Get it right and many side finder will work to some degree with amazing speed but if you position that probe too high, as soon as the boat starts to come out of the water it will lose its ability. Here’s a short video illustrating the functional installation of a side-by-side fish finder detector: Yes, we know this can be confusing – and again, we have to be careful: If you doubt If in doubt, hire a professional to do the job. reinstall a side finder or a traditional adapter, the rest of the steps are the same. With the frame position defined, use the mounting pattern to mark the transfer tree. Hold the probe in place and view it from different angles, to ensure that you meet all recommended parameters. But before mounting the probe frame, run the probe line to the dash. In the best case scenario, there will be a lanyard made by a dedicated builder who thinks ahead to make your life easier. If not, and if your boat has an old fishfinder with an adapter mount that is not being reused, cut the probe off the tip and use the old wire to pull the new probe through the wire slot. If not, you’ll need to get a wire fish and start over to wire the new probe and plug it in. (Have fun! This can be extremely difficult, especially in older boats with lots of rope running through tight tubes and around bends.) Pull all excess rope through until it’s in the back. steering station, roll it up and tie the rope into place. Note: Never cut the probe wire to size; Creating new connections in there will likely lead to performance issues. With the wire running, the template is in place and double and triple checking completes its position, drilling pilot holes for the mounting screws of the frame. Then use 3M 5200 glue/sealant to coat the mounting screws freely. (Below the waterline, it is best to use 5200 instead of 4200, as it has stronger adhesion properties). While holding the bracket in place, tighten the mounting screws. Use a lot of goop, here – the last thing you want is holes in your bridge for water to seep through. Once you have the bracket in place, attach the probe to it and tighten it.Use a variety of adhesives / sealants on the screws; below the waterline, our favorite is the 3M 5200. Next, you can use the small wire clips that come with your fishfinder to secure the probe wire to the rear of the aircraft and to the truss tube. You’ll want to secure it at each leg or so, and make sure there are no drops or looseness in the cord. If your boat has wiring routed under the gun truss and not in the truss tube, use a lanyard to secure it wherever possible on the run. Again, be sure to remove areas that are drooping or loose as loose ropes can rub against the fiberglass as the boat sails, causing chipping over the years. TIP: Do not bundle the probe wire with the motor harness, this can cause electrical interference in some cases.

Make Fishfinder’s Ultimate Connection

Now you will need to run the device power that leads to the terminal block. Again, check the wires and secure them whenever possible. Use heat shrinkable connectors where possible and spray all connections with the generous help of a good corrosion inhibitor, like Cor wearX or Boeshield T-9. If your device is a combo fishfinder/chartometer and your VHF does not have built-in GPS, now is the time to connect the NMEA in and out wires to provide GPS location data to the VHF. yours, so you can enable DSC. Temptation though it might be possible to cut a corner or two at this stage of the game, don’t skip this step – with active DSC if you call the Coast Guard in an emergency, they’ll instantly know the location and your exact details about your boat as you transmit. Finally, plug the adapter and power cable into the back of the device. Okay: you may want to start the boat and give it a test run as soon as possible, but first make sure it sits long enough to allow the 5200 to dry completely. It takes up to a week to fully heal, and you definitely want to give the thing plenty of time to work. Then and only then, it’s time to start the boat to see how the units perform at rest and on the plane. It will probably work fine when the boat is sitting still or traveling at a no-wake speed, but keep in mind that problems often arise with transom mounts when running on airplanes. If your instrument loses bottom readings when you firewall the throttles, you will have to adjust the probe height on the mount. Move it down a hair, then reboot and test the device again. If you go down too far, you will be able to throw a rooster’s tail into the air while the boat is in the plane and also have a higher risk of damage. Keep restarting and moving the probe up or down in the holder until you find the best position, re-insert if you have to loosen any screws to move the bracket.Finally, you are ready and ready to enjoy views like these! It may cost a little more to have a professional do the installation work, but this is your fishing boat we’re talking about – few things in life matter more!

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