How To Get Pottery Barn Black Finish

Hello friends! Can you believe it’s already November? The weather is starting to cool down here, so I’m taking every opportunity to stay warm in my paint shop. I picked up this ’80s buffet from the ReStore and my first thought – Ceramic Barn Black Finish. Existing shapes, styles and stains are all perfect for an imitation of the Pottery Barn! If you’re a fan of this popular black distressed look, be sure to read on because today I’m sharing 5 DIY tips that make recreating this dramatic finish a whole lot easier!Readings: how to finish black in ceramic stock Here’s a look at the before, during and after. This buffet also comes with a top hutch but I decided not to use it for this redecorated look. It will be useful for a few other things down the road. (This post contains affiliate links. See my full disclosure here.)

MUNITION:

Furniture for restoration
Black paint quality (I used a Black General Finish Light)
Paint brush and/or roller
Sand paper
Trace (I used Minwax Gunstock)
Q-Tips & Towel Shopping
Top coat for protection (I used Annie Sloans Black Wax for the body and Poly for the top)

5 DIY TIPS FOR A LOTTERY STRONG LOTTERY LONG FINISHING BLACK END:

1. PUSH THE PIECES RIGHT Read more: How to Use a Multimeter to Troubleshoot Your Sensors The shape and style of the furniture you choose will make a big difference. Existing warm-stained solid wood pieces (even the old-fashioned orange stain on this 80’s piece) work great. It saves a lot of time when you don’t have a stained base coat. DO NOT USE PRIMERPrimer which aids adhesion and prevents bleeding and stains. The latter is useful when painting with bright paint colors. But when painting a black finish, the last thing you want to see when you start sanding is a layer of white primer underneath! This can ruin the entire look, so here are a few options…As long as your product is properly cleaned, lightly sanded (220 grit) and using quality paint, there is no need for a primer. I didn’t use anything on this piece and it turned out perfect. If you decide to use a primer, a colored primer can be purchased so that the white won’t show off after sanding. The last option to avoid using primer is to use powder or mineral paint when primer is not required. BETWEEN SAND To get this miserable Knock-Off Pottery Barn Finish, sanding in between each coat is important.While painting, I painted some areas with my lighter hand and then sanded these areas a little harder. The goal is to reveal some of the original stain while most of the piece remains opaque black. Read more: How to craft a master ball in pixelmon4. DO NOT TREAT CARE WOOD WITH STAIN If you do not re-sand with your super light hand, you may find that some areas have been sanded back to bare wood. It’s really easy to do on corners and edges like I did below.Here’s a simple fix with the right stain and Q-Tip. I dip the Q-Tip into the stain and only apply it to the rough wood areas. I let it sit for a minute and then wiped it off with a store towel and let it dry. This step is done after you have painted and sanded the final coat but before you top coat. BLACK WAX FINISH & TOPCOATT For a deep black on a black Pottery Barn Finish background, black wax works amazingly.For extra durability on this buffet top, I used General Finish High Performance Poly. For the whole body, I use Annie Sloan’s Black Wax. Any black wax will add an extra layer of iridescent black.Read more: how to run fortnite on low end 2018 Feel free to pin this project and if you have any questions feel free to ask.

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