How To Draw Wood Texture In Pencil

Article by Carrie Lewis in Art Tutorials > Painting Tips Today I’m sharing a tutorial on painting wood grain, as well as explaining how to represent a few familiar features of weathered wood boards. I will use a thick Prismacolor pencil and thick white drawing paper. Read: how to draw wood textures with a pencil Ready? Then let’s get started!Quick Notice – EmptyEasel created a A faster, easier way for artists to have their own art website. Click here to learn more and get a simple art website of your own!

1. Always find a good source

Different woods have different grain patterns, densities, and colors. It’s best to work from life, as I did for this demonstration.

2. Start by sketching your board

I started with a light brown pencil in a neutral shade. I prefer Raw Umber Prismacolor, but any color is fine as long as the crayons are fairly light. Placing a blunt pencil vertically, I drew a straight line, rotating the pencil to change the width of the line. This is the ideal line for weathered wood such as a fence, porch, deck, or shed. (For more even wood, such as trim panels or wood planks, use a straight edge to draw cleaner, straight lines. Next, I sharpened the pencil and used the edges to add a thin color. for all tables.Notice the density of the strokes. There are plenty of white papers that show through color, and that’s what you want. Also, leave some areas of the paper completely untouched, such as on either side of the line where the two boards touch. Since wood is three-dimensional, its edges will catch light and you should now leave some of those edges completely white. This will be your base color for the wood and this random coating simulates the wood grain pretty quickly and easily.

3. Draw wood grain lines and knots

Read more: How to draw a handshake step by step I darken parts of the cracks between the planks to separate the boards. Then I drew a knot and started adding wood grain around the button and along the length of the plank.For the knot, I sharpened the pencil and used the tip to draw an open circle for the center of the knot. Then I darken the area by repeating the partial circles. A few cracks radiating from the button darken the center and end the illusion.

4. Add details by drawing old nails and cracks

What is the old board without nails? I added nails to each plank. The nails were shaded enough to expose the light source.With a freshly sharpened pencil, I sketch along the wood grain with parallel strokes and light pressure. At this stage, I’m more concerned with establishing the shape and position of the grain than creating the detail. Some strokes are short and close together. Others are longer and more open. All follow the pattern of natural wood grain. I used the light and shadow model created by shading in the first step to decide where to place the wood grain. I didn’t track those samples exactly, but used them to establish value variations in and around the grain. I continued shading and darkening, and filled in another node in the second plank, using the same round stroke to establish position and shape before sketching in the grain and cracks.Up to this point, I’ve only used Raw Umber. I set the value by layering, changing the shape of the pencil (sharp or blunt) and varying the pressure. In the darkest areas, I use about 6 or 7 pressure, slightly heavier than normal writing pressure. For most of the rest of the job, the pressure is moderate, between 2 and 4.

5. Layer more colors into the wood, nails and knots

Now it’s time to get the job done. The following image shows all the different steps I took (and each one is written below it).Read more: how to be a guardian in minecraftONE. I shaded this part with the side of the pencil, again working the length. I used two layers each, Light Umber and Dark Umber, and one layer of Warm Gray 70%. With the tip of the pencil, I applied 60% Warm Gray in short, overlapping vertical lines.B. I used Dark Umber and Indigo Blue to darken the cracks around the button and the hole in the center. For the rusty nail, I use Sienna Brown for the base color, Dark Umber for the matte edge, and Jasmine for the light edge. A little Sky Blue Light for accents, then I polish with a colorless blender. I also shaded Sienna Brown around the nail to stain the wood. I continued coloring with alternating layers of the same color used in Part A, drawing with pencil points, and working with overlapping, vertical strokes to create texture. and wood grain. I continued that by painting Ocher Yellow on the board with the side of the pencil. In some areas, I let the strokes overlap. There are also areas where the Yellow Ocher is not shaded.C. I continued to build up the color by applying alternating layers of light gray, dark, and 70% warm gray over the entire wood. The first layer is Light Umber, applied in diagonal strokes over the grain. All other colors are applied with different lengths to the bead. I darken the knot with a layer of Indigo Blue, followed by Dark Umber. This allows me to paint over the highlight with other colors without jeopardizing the value or the lighter color. Then add 10% Cream and Warm Gray to the lighter areas with a blunt pencil and heavier pressure (6 to 7). The strokes are all vertical.D. I finished the area with a Light Umber shade and a Yellow Ocher shade, then I applied another layer of each with vertical strokes. I took advantage of natural patterns formed between color and paper. The three “mistakes” you see are suggested by the way my base color was applied to the original paper. All I had to do was add shadows and retain the highlights, then use Warm Gray 70% to place the cracks in the wood. (9 or 10) to smooth and blend several color areas. And now it’s your turn. . . Step outside, find yourself a weathered fence or old wooden pallet, and have it! NOTE: You may also be interested in EE’s step-by-step drawing tutorials for artists. Click below to learn more! This post may contain affiliate links. Read more: how to clean honda car leather seats

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