How To Do Corners With A Binding Foot
If you feel frustrated setting a constraint because sometimes you don’t catch the back of the constraint and there are small gaps – you need this article! Never miss the back again and get a perfectly straight stitch – learn how to use the Tie Pin. Remember that lovely big box of stitched feet I bought? I am working my way through them little by little, with varying degrees of success. I’m never one to worry too much about the accuracy of my stitches so these definitely help me get great results on all my test pieces.
In particular, there is one thing I would like to share with you, which is Foot Binding. This is a revelation! I now adore foot binding and have created all sorts of little and pieces to add some constraints to. Let’s see how it works.
Features of foot binding
The closing legs are adjustable to handle different binding widths. It works with the bias constraint and is perfect for use around gentle curves and circles, and it also works with the straight cut constraint for straight edges. With some practice, you can also use it to get neat corners – maybe after I practice a little more, a new way of doing things will guide you through my tips for do that. Now, we will assume that we have to add constraint to a straight edge and will do it in a single pass, stitching front and back at the same time (perfectly). There are two wheels on the legs. One so you can adjust the position of the foot itself and slide it left or right and then another wheel to adjust the width of the clear part of the foot holding the length of the laces. This controls a sliding guide that runs the length of the cover as you sew and holds it snugly against the guides for a perfect seam.
The plastic parts are very flexible, especially when the wheel underneath is rotated to a wider setting so that they can be extended to allow the fabric and the binding sandwich to be joined together. don’t really need the numbers. I think it’s more important to just rotate that wheel until the constraint is tight than using a number as a guide.
How to load bindings and fabric
Read more: How to freeze dry candy Open the bottom wheel to move the guide to the right hand side. This allows the top and bottom of the ‘jaw’ to open more easily. Now at this point some of the guides I’ve read suggest feeding in your binding first and you can certainly try this and see if you continue that way.The first method of binding. Load the tape with the opening edge on the left and the crease on the right. Split the open edges and slide both the top and bottom edges inside the little tabs to the left of the functions. Here’s how it would look with the top and bottom of the fabric separated and held in place by small plastic guides.
Adjust that bottom wheel until the guide now moves snugly over the folded edge of the cover so that the binding is held smoothly between the left and right edges, but not wrinkled.
Now open the jaws with your fingers and slide into the item / fabric / clothing / comforter to tie. Push the edge up to the fold of the cover. Slide the foot and tie to the starting point of the edge to tie. You are ready to sew.
The whole sandwich method. Personally, I find this easier, so try each one and see which you like better. This time, instead of loading the spine first and then the fabric later, I pinned the spine to the fabric and loaded the legs all at once. Move the navigation bar to the right so you can open the function easily. Close to the starting point of where you want to sew, pin or clip the spine to the fabric/ quilt as if it were ready to sew, with a gap of 3 or 4 inches between the pins. Now slide the foot into place around the entire clamp between those pins, and position the edges of the binding in the small guides to the left. Make sure that the front and back sides are within the guides smoothly.
Turn the wheel below to move the right guide up to fit the fold of the spine. All is now in place and ready to sew. Remove the top latch, slide the foot back to where you want to start sewing and you’re done. Remove the bottom pin as you sew.
Sewing with tie pins
If you have a machine with an adjustable needle – it’s easy! Clip the foot to the machine and adjust the needle to exactly where you want the binding stitch. Choose right on the edge or just step back from the edge for extra safety, you won’t miss a point on the back. foot and then thread so that the needle position is just right, so sew along the edge of the cover. Then tighten the screw again.
Simply drop the needle on the fabric manually to check if you are satisfied with the placement. Assuming you are, then you are ready to sew. Your foot can be quite flat or it can be like mine. With my tie leg, the front plastic part is at an upward angle when it’s facing me. Of course, the propeller itself is flat against the bed of the machine and the feeding dog, but to get my sandwich into the leg, it’s best for me to hold it at a slight angle for insertion.
Now simply sew lengthwise gently, making sure that the spine is within the small guides and that the fabric or quilt in between the bindings remains close to the fold and let the foot and machine take care of the rest. What do you get? The front and back covers are sewn to perfection, the stitches line up perfectly and don’t miss at all when you turn them upside down – genius!
So if it’s driving you crazy when you’re sewing on the spine of a book and you turn it over and find yourself missing the back in a few spots, make your sewing life easier with one of these this fastener. Get it in the super propeller kit above, like I did or you can, of course, buy them separately. Read more: how to win the heart of a capricious man
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