How To Build A Table With Removable Legs
The farmhouse table is my absolute favorite piece of furniture and will always mean a lot to me! Farm tables are the reason I taught myself how to build furniture, they opened up the DIY world that I love and they also made me realize I can have a blog too. Read: how to build a table with removable legs I started my first creative small business by opening a rental company for antiques for weddings and ranch tables as the main rental item.Brandon and I built beautiful, 20.8-foot tall cedar farm tables. Here is a photo of them with some of the other rentals I provided: I no longer run a rental business and I sold the farm table to another rental company, but My love of making furniture continues and I am finally happy to share the farm board building plan that we used to build over 20 farm boards. What I love about these plans is that the table legs are easily removable! So if you move a lot (or want to build them for your business) and need them to be easily transportable, these plans work great! use 2x thick wood, but they can be modified for any table size and with different wood thicknesses. The farm table in the photos below is the one Brandon and I made for our brother, sister-in-law, and grandson. I also attached a photo at the bottom of the FIRST farm table that we still use today in our kitchen! Note, if you’re building a farm table for a rental business, I’d recommend using 1-thick cedar. Cedar is beautiful and much lighter than pine. It makes transporting the boards even easier!
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1. Gather all materials and supplies. Cut the table top, legs and side aprons
Contents
It’s important to choose the straightest planks you can find as this will come in handy as you assemble your table. Make the cuts below. Note, for the countertop, we’ll start with an extra inch on each side that will be trimmed later.
- Table top – (3) 2 × 10 @ 74
- Table top – (2) 2 × 8 @ 74
- Side Apron – (2) 2 × 4 @ 57
- Legs – (4) 4 × 4 @ 29
2. Cut the sides from the table top panel
To get the right fit for your countertops, use a circular saw and trim 1/4″ of the side edges of all planks, except for the two outer edges of the countertop. We used the straight edge guide we made to do this, but you can use the table saw guide or buy straight edge cutting guide also. In the 2nd photo below you can see the difference of the straight edges on the right side versus the rounded edges on the left side. Note, typically for 1-ply wood, the boards are square/straight on the edges and you don’t need to do this step.
3. Place the table top and mark the pocket hole locations
Line up your headboard in the correct order (make sure the two outer rounded edges are at the ends) and mark with the order marker # on the end board. Then, flip the planks over and mark where you will drill the pocket hole. It’s best to place them 8″ – 12″ apart and alternate on each board. Also, make sure to stay a few inches from the sides. I wish I had a better photo of the kreg holes, but I’ve added arrows to the photo below to give you an idea of where.
4. Drill pocket holes and assemble the table top
Use yours Kreg Jig and drill pocket holes as marked on the board on your desk.*Tips: Watch my How to use Kreg Jig Post for easy, step-by-step instructions and video tutorials on how to use Kreg Jig! Then, using wood glue and kreg screws, attach each panel together (make sure each board is assembled in the correct order). The 48-inch long clip definitely helps with this part. Read more: Destiny 2 how to pass level 20 | Top Q&A
5. Cut the ends of the table top
Use a circular saw and trim 1 inch of both ends of the countertop to get perfectly straight ends. The photo below is a bad one but it gives you an idea of what this step looks like!
6. Drill pocket holes in the side apron and attach to the table top
Use your Kreg Jig and drill three pocket holes spread out on both sides of the apron. At the bottom of the top of the board, mark a half point (36″) along the edge, then mark 3 inches above that point. This is where the center point of your side apron should be attached. Next, mark the center point of your side apron (28.5″). Line up the center point of your side apron with the center point you marked along the edge of the countertop. Attach with kreg screws and wood glue (make sure your side aprons are attached fully parallel and 3 inches from the edge). Repeat on the other side.
7. Prepare table legs
On one of the square edges of each table leg, use 45 Degree Chamfer Router Bit and route a chamfer at least 3 inches long.
8. Prepare curly brackets
Line up your legs and braces to the side aprons as shown in the photo below. Then, measure the distance from the stand back to the top of the table (should be about 6.5 inches). Repeat on the other side and make sure the distance from the curly brace back to the top of the table is the same so that both braces line up at the same distance from the top of the table. Attach the stand to the countertop using 1″ wood screws drilled into the two frame holes in the bottom, corner. Repeat on the double side.
9. Prepare and attach the end apron
Line up your table legs against the side apron and stand in the corner. Then measure the inside distance from one foot of the table to another to get an accurate measurement of the end of the apron. Repeat at the top of the opposite panel. Next, cut the 2×4 apron to size, drill three holes in them, then attach to your countertop with wood glue and kreg screws. Note, as shown in the 2nd photo below, it will help you line up the end aprons and mark where you want your three pocket holes to go so you don’t drill them into another crack or pocket. on the table top.
10. Drill screws into the remaining corner bracket holes
Add screws to the remaining corner frame holes to secure the corner frame to the side and end aprons.
11. Prepare and attach the center brace
Measure the exact distance between the side aprons and cut the three 2×4 center bracing to size. Add two pocket holes to each end of the brace and attach to the side apron on the underside of the countertop using wood glue and kreg screws. I forgot to take a picture of the support bracket…
12. Finished table legs
Use a small pencil and mark where the corner bracket holes are aligned on the table leg chamfer. It also helps to label the table legs and apron end, it matches perfectly with A, B, C, D if you will. It’s really important that the hole is drilled at 90 degrees or the pins can be bent. Next, attach the hanger bolts to the holes with hanger bolt driverFinally, attach your loose legs to your farm table with 5/16 flat washers and hex nuts!
Flip your farm table over and it’s all ready for sanding, staining and finishing! Here is the final result:
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And here’s a photo of our very first farm table that’s still in our kitchen today, and our test build to figure out the best way to build a farm table with legs. Removable:
I hope these building plans explaining how to build a farm table with removable legs are helpful! For instructions on how I dyed and finished all the panels on the farm we built, you can check out my post How to dye wood?. We used Minwax Black walnut for this board, I’d love to see your version of this build! Please share photos with me on Instagram, Facebookor email: [email protected]! Be sure to follow Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, exciting updates and previews! You may also be interested in: SaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSave Share very interested! Read more: how to see the good in people
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