How To Build A Quail Flight Pen
The saying birds make the dog, right? I have two bird dogs, but the birds were missing from the equation, so I decided to build a fly barn in my backyard to start raising some birds for further training. I’m definitely not a builder, but overall this pen pairs quite well with a limited number of tools and resources. I was so pleased with the result that I finally decided on a pen that measures 6′ wide x 18′ long x 8′ high. I want to give the birds some space so they can get up, spread their wings and fly a few to become powerful flying birds (a must when training dogs, especially young ones) .
After a few trips to Home Depot and a few hours of searching the internet for ideas, I was ready to start the project. I started by framing each wall section on the ground before setting up the overall pen. I made (5) 6 ′ x 8 ′ sections with a curly brace in between 4 ′. I will use two of these for the front and back walls, and the other three will be used for the side wall. The pen will be late bolting to the back of my barn, so I only have to make an 18′ side wall. The walls are made of treated 2×4 studs and I used 3 inch deck screws for framing. . I think it’s easier to do this on flat ground than when the 8′ walls are vertical. I use a 1 x1 multi-purpose mesh to cover each 6’x8 , then on the bottom 4 I use a 2 x2 chicken wire to keep anything from breaking, or chewing through net. Side note: I was actually planning on making the entire coop out of chicken wire until a coworker mentioned that he used to raise quails and pheasants and the ceiling needed to be mesh material with some so they don’t break their necks in flight. So I ended the whole pen in mesh knitting and added chicken wire at the bottom 4′ around the pen for protection.
(Tip: Fold the chicken wire over the sides so they press between the walls.)
I also put the door together while the wall sections were on the ground. It’s a 2′ wide hinged door. Just cut the 2×4 down to size and frame the door and place it on the hinges.
Once the walls are complete and properly meshed, it’s time to put them up and put them all together! Luckily, I have a nice neighbor who is willing to help me put it all together and bring it back to my barn. This is going to be difficult for me. We start by screwing (remember to pre-drill the screw holes so the wood doesn’t split) the front and back walls of the barn first. We quickly noticed that the ground was uneven from where the walls leaned against the barn, to where they extended – the ground fell off a few inches. We got around this by cutting (3) the 2×6 sections below the corners to raise them to level with the side connected to the barn. I used a processed 4×4 8′ post in the corner of each front and back wall to connect the side wall sections to.
From there we in turn add (3) the remaining 6’x8 ′ sections to create the 18 side wall. We also had to insert (3) 2×6 sections below these to raise them to the level. We used delay bolts to connect the parts together.
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The pen is now built so it’s time to add a grid to the tip. To do this, I screwed 2x4s in the top horizontal line of the barn so I could pin the net to it. I also added (2) curly braces going over the top for more stability.
Once the roof was in place, I went around and added 2 rows of deck boards at the bottom of the pen for an extra level of protection and security for the birds inside.
Many might argue that quails are safer on a higher platform to keep them away from predators and disease. I decided to design on the ground because we don’t have a lot of carnivores in the area where I live (It’s very rare to see a raccoon. Without foxes, we would sometimes hear coyotes. and the area I live in is too dry for ferrets.) I plan to cycle through the birds at a fairly fast pace, so illness doesn’t worry me much. In fact, many quail owners claim that quails do better in a barn in the wild than in a barn (I spent a lot of time researching this). Time will tell on both issues, so the jury is still out on that. I’ve read some stories about predators pry open the bottom corner of the door and enter the pen that way, so I added a locking pin at the bottom of the door. to prevent it from being pry open.
I built an overhead sunshade/roof with the remaining 2×4s and some pallets.
As for the birds, I decided on the Tennessee Reds (which are not native to Michigan). These birds are strong-flying, easy to care for, and the biggest deciding factor is that they can be shot year-round in Michigan for dog training, unlike its similar cousin, the white bob (a species of bird). native birds in Michigan), can only be shot during the white bob season. Be sure to check your state’s regulations when deciding which birds to keep. I would not recommend the Coturnix (Japanese quail) as they are poor flyers.List of materials and associated costsHandled 2x4x8 studs ($5.98) x40 ($239.20) Handled 4x4x8 posts ($11.47) x2 ($22.94) 1-5/32x6x8 deck boards handled ($ 5.47) x8 ($43.76) 1LB box of 3″ deck screws ($6.78) x3 ($20.34) Read more: how to keep wig in the wind Galvanized delay pin 1/4 × 3- 1/2 ″ ($0.96) x24 ($23.04) Door hinge ($2.98) x3 ($8.94) Galvanized door latch ($4.98) x1 Galvanized Door Latches ($7.56) x1 Thick Wire Fence 2 ″ x2 ″ Mesh, 60 ″ x150 ′ Dimensions ($62.99) X1 (This was thicker wire than I needed, but that’s all what was available at the time) Jobe’s 7’x100 ′ 1 ″ x1 Multi-Purpose Network ″ ($49.99) x1 (Network link – topqa.info/3k0fr9E) Box of 1000 T15 staplers (4, $49) x2 ($8.98) Total Cost – $492.72Tools usedI hope this helps those who are looking for some direction on building a pen and starting their own! You can certainly change the design to fit your needs. If you have any questions, feel free to drop me a message! And if you make a pen, I’d love to see it! Read more: how to make a double-sided fleece blanket
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