How To Build A Lattice Fence Panel
Any old fence will create a void. But a sleek design built from cedar parts also increases curb appeal, not to mention the best chain link. And while cedar is expensive, sleek pressure-treated 4×4 posts in 1× cedar instead of paying for 6×6 cedar posts are sure to keep costs down. Save even more by dedicating clear cedar to prominent areas and using regular cedar where it doesn’t show its imperfections. “Just remember to call 811 to get utility lines marked before you dig,” says This Old House senior technical editor Mark Powers. Read on to see how he put this beauty together.Download the cut list for building wooden fences.
Overview of how to build a wooden fence
Contents
Illustrated by Gregory Nemec
Daily timeline
Preparation day Locate the fence and place the first post (Steps 2 and 3).
- SATURDAY Build the sleeves and panels (Steps 4-6).
- SUNDAY Install the panels and trim, and place the remaining posts (Steps 7 and 8).
For the cut list, see below or download the cut list here.
Cut list
This cutlist panel is for a 36 x 51 inch panel. Repeat for each panel and customize the size of your boards as needed to avoid a portion of the boards in your fence. For grid panel stops, you can safely separate up to three from each 1×6 regular cedar board. However, if you just rip two strips off the 1×6, you’ll have enough width left over for the narrow sleeve sections. For our panel, we left 43 inches of the pole exposed on the ground.
- 2 × 4 upper and lower frames: 2 @ 51 inches
- Frame edge 2 × 4: 2 @ 33 inches
- ¾-inch stop: 4 @ 31½ inches (1x material is torn up to ¾ inch wide to make a ¾-x-¾-inch square pin)
- ¾-inch stop: 4 @ 48 inches (1x material is torn up to ¾ inch wide to make a ¾-x-¾-inch square pin)
- Mesh: 1 @ 32⅞ x 47⅞ inches (to fit comfortably in a frame with an internal dimension of 33 x 48 inches)
- Cover Rails: 1 @ 49½ inches (Up to 5⅛ inches wide)
- Sign and sleeve
Make the full length sleeve sections on the front and back visible from transparent cedar and cheaper regular cedar stops and blocks. To determine the number of sleeve sections required for each post configuration, refer to the list below.
- Full-length sleeve pieces: 43 inches (Up to 5⅛ inches wide)
- Bottom block sleeve piece: 4 inches (up to 3⅝ inches wide)
- Sleeve top: 3 inches (up to 3⅝ inches wide)
Middle song
- 1 full length front piece, 5⅛ inches wide
- 1 piece full length back 5⅛ inches wide
- Top 2 blocks 3⅝ inches wide
- 2 3⅝ inch wide bottom blocks
End of post
- 1 full length front piece, 5⅛ inches wide
- 1 piece full length back 5⅛ inches wide
- 1 full-length side piece, 3⅝ inches wide
- 1 top block 3⅝ inches wide
- 1 block bottom 3⅝ inches wide
Read more: how to swim up in gta 5 pc | Top Q & Acornerpost
- 1 full length front piece, 5⅛ inches wide
- 1 full-length side piece, 4⅜ inches wide
- 1 top block 4⅜ inches wide
- 1 block bottom 4⅜ inches rộng wide
- 1 top block 3⅝ inches wide
- 1 block bottom 3⅝ inches wide
Step 1: Locate the line
Photo by Kolin Smith To perpendicular the fence to the house, you will mark a right triangle extending from the foundation. Place a stake in the corner of the triangle where the first pier will come and the second 3 feet from the foundation. Tie the mason’s rope to the first stake, tension the corner to the house, and mark it 4 feet away from the stake. Find the 5-foot mark on a ruler and place it from the second pole towards the line. Now cross the stretch and tape until you get the 4-foot and 5-foot markings that meet. When they do, according to the Pythagorean theorem, you get a 90-degree angle at the angle of the triangle — and thus a perpendicular that cuts the house. Larger triangles (say 9, 12 and 15 feet) work even better.
Step 2: Dig the first posting hole
Kolin Smith’s photo Usually, digging out of the icy road and placing at least a third of the piles of crushed rock and well-mixed soil works well. But anyone with very sandy soil should sink the concrete post, as we did. Mark your hole depth on the hole digger handle with painter’s tape and dig 6 inches below the frost line and be three times the diameter of the column.
Step 3: Finish the post
Photo by Kolin Smith If you’re using concrete, you’ll want to keep water out between it and the wood. In that case, wrap part of the pole with self-adhesive flashing, starting near the end and extending above the concrete track but below the ground.
Step 4: Place the post
Photo by Kolin Smith Place 6 inches of drainage rock in the hole and insert it into the column. Add or subtract stones to get your post height. Clip two strips of feathers to adjacent faces to support the post in the hole, as shown. Glue 1x scrap to the front of the post to hold the sleeve and make sure it touches the mason line. Using a level on two adjacent sides, adjust the supports to make the pillar. Add a few inches of drainage rock around the pillar. Pour the dry concrete mix into a hole a few inches deeper than the mark. Add water until mixture is saturated, and stir it with a crumb. Check the plumbing, cover the hole with soil, and let the post stand while the concrete cures.
Step 5: Cut the pieces behind the sleeves
Photo by Kolin Smith To build the sleeves, you’ll clamp narrow blocks on the sides where the fence panels connect between the wider length pieces. Use a circular saw to rip blocks into 3⅝ inches and full length pieces into 5⅛ inches. For the end columns, substitute a 3⅝ inch long for the narrow side blocks without connecting panels. After tearing, use a saw to cut the pieces to length.
Step 6: Assemble the sleeves
Photo by Kolin Smith Apply polyurethane sealant to the edges of the lower sleeve blocks, clamp them between the front and back pieces, and use the 1-inch nail gun and nail to secure the assembly. Place the blocks on top until the panels are installed.Tip: If the glue bubbles out of the seams, don’t smear it with a cloth, or the glue will never come off. Just wait until it dries and scrape it off with a chisel or scraper.
Step 7: Install the first sleeve
Kolin Smith’s photo Glide sleeves over the pole with the front parallel to the fence, as shown. Make it flat at the top, fade it and screw it in place.
Step 8: Cut the frame pieces
Photo by Kolin Smith Use a ruler saw to cut 2×4 frame pieces to length. Fit the band saw to the fence and tear off the ¾ inch strips from the 1x board, as shown. You will use these bands as breakpoints to hold the lattice in place. Cut stops to length: 1 ½ inch shorter than the side pieces of the frame and 3 inches shorter than the top and bottom pieces.
Step 9: Attach the stops ahead
Photo by Kolin SmithRead more: how to use stardew valley furnace | Top Q & A Lay the frame piece of a panel on the work surface. Place a corresponding strip on each panel, centered from start to finish for the front stop. Now, use a scrap of strip material to indent the stops 3⁄4 inches from the front edge of each plank. Mount them in place with a 1-inch nail and nail gun, and screw them into the board with a 1-inch drill/driver and screw.
Step 10: Drill a Weep Hole
Photo by Kolin Smith Using a drill/controller fitted with a ⅜-inch drill, drill four holes along the centerline of the bottom bracket piece for drainage. Repeat to create the pieces for the remaining frames.
Step 11: Cut the mesh
Kolin Smith’s photo The Notice shows staple items on the back, so first decide how you want the strips to be oriented outward—horizontally or vertically. Then mark the width and height of the panel on the lattice. Making panels 48 inches or less will allow you to get two in each 4 x 8 foot wide. Cut the lattice to size with a circular saw.
Step 12: Assemble the frame
Photo by Kolin Smith Place the frame pieces from the front edge down on the work surface, and place the side boards between the top and bottom boards. The ends of the stops attached to the top and bottom boards should make a tight connection with the stops attached to the side panels, as shown.
Step 13: Network Settings
Photo by Kolin Smith Place lattice in frame against front stops, end face down. Screw the stops into the top and bottom bracket pieces to lock in the lattice; save the side stops for Step 17.
Step 14: Set post spacing
Photo by Kolin Smith Place a panel on the first post, place it on the bottom sleeve block at one end and cut the blocks at the other end. Using the post hole digger, mark the location of the next post slightly below the bottom of the panel. Remove the panel and dig holes.
Step 15: Locate the second post
Kolin Smith’s photo Create your stone drainage bed and set the post height. Slide the sleeve onto the pole, glue and secure it in place. Clamp the control panel between the posts and position the removable post so that the panel is level when placed on the sleeve blocks below. Keep the scrap blocks in place to stabilize the panel as you make adjustments. Add drainage rock around the pillar.
Step 16: Attach the dashboard
Photo by Kolin SmithDrive 3-inch screw through the back of the frame and into the posts (top, center, bottom) to secure the components, as shown. Then install your side stops. Clip the feather strips to the adjacent faces of the unplaced post, as in Step 6, and position it with the waterline and with the sleeve side touching the mason line. Pour concrete into the hole, mix in water and let stand, usually about 45 minutes. Repeat steps 14-16 to place the remaining posts and attach the remaining panels. Go back and secure the upper sleeve blocks above the panels.
Step 17: Attach the Cap Rail
Kolin Smith’s photo: Drag the boards to 5⅛ inches wide. Keep each table next to the articles and record it by length. Cut the planks to length and lay them on top of the cardstock, edges flat with the sleeves. If the board is bent, be sure to lay that side down. Fix the boards with polyurethane construction adhesive.
Step 18: Protect the post cover
Photo by Kolin Smith Apply the same construction glue to the top of the column and put the cap in place. Or you can drive nails through the lid and into the posts.Tip: Make your own hat for your post from two square blocks, one smaller than the other, glued and nailed to the top of the post. Read more: how to win her husband back from another woman
Tools:
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