How To Decrease Humidity In Incubator
Humidity in the incubator is always a problem. Too much or too little can ruin your hatching rate. Humidity starts at a percentage but then needs to be raised at the right point for successful hatching. This may leave some scratching their heads over how to accomplish this feat. Air can absorb water. This water vapor is a gas. Water vapor in the air can range from zero to a maximum that air can hold. We call this saturation. This full maximum can increase as the temperature increases. This is expressed as a percentage. It is a measure of the amount of water vapor in the air relative to the maximum amount of water vapor that can be absorbed at that temperature. If the Relative Humidity level is 50%, the air contains half its maximum possible water vapor capacity. 65-75% in the last three days of hatching. In general, slightly lower humidity is better than too high humidity during incubation. Then, for future hatches, you can tweak the numbers and make small adjustments to best suit you. age of hens), altitude, length and egg storage conditions, weather, incubation temperature, air speed and shell thickness (decreases with age of hens. Thinner shells require more moisture. higher.) The eggshell is porous and allows water to pass through. The amount of water an egg loses during incubation is important and is determined by the humidity in the incubator. it. Water is gradually lost through the shell and is replaced by air which is also drawn through the shell. This area of sky gradually increased in size. The more water loss, the larger the sky. This airspace is very important for chicks. It is the first air the chicken breathes and is necessary for the chicken to move into the correct position for hatching. Read more: how to print front and back on google docsIf the humidity is too high during incubation, the eggs will lose too little water and the air cells will be small. This will make it difficult for the chicken to breathe and to come out of the shell. Often you will see the chick’s beak protruding from the shell. The bird is stuck, cannot wrap around the shell and will not hatch, if the incubation humidity is too low, there will be a huge amount of air. Chicks are usually small and weak, and will have difficulty cracking and hatching. Monitoring the air cells as you light the candle will also let you know if your incubator is maintaining the proper humidity. This chart shows you what your gas cells look like when the eggs are dehydrated. Use a pencil to draw the outline of the egg cell each time you plug the candle.
During incubation, you can control humidity through the use of vents to monitor the amount of fresh air entering the incubator. The more fresh air comes in, the lower the humidity is. There are also water pans that can be added to increase humidity or troughs at the bottom of the incubator that can be filled with water. Covering the lid with foil will reduce the surface area of the water. It is not the depth of the water but the surface area of the water that determines how much water will evaporate into the air. . Add more water surface through the use of pans, troughs and sponges, damp pads or wick pads. This is where a good hygrometer will serve you well. Use it to track where your humidity is. You can also monitor humidity during incubation by weighing the eggs. Most eggs need to loose between 13% and 15% of their weight from laying until hatching. Weigh them every 5 days and chart their weight. Use this chart as an example. Adjust humidity if eggs are not losing enough weight or losing too quickly.
I used the Hovabator incubator for the first 18 days of incubation. I just filled the first trough with water and removed the red vents so the eggs had plenty of fresh air. I end up adding more water to that first trough about every three days. It will dry if you don’t add more water. Depending on the time of year, I’m around 50% for the first 18 days. Candles on the 18th will show an air cell that takes up about 1/3 o Read more: how to use the crow quill I use a Brinsea Octagon for the last three days after hatching. I increase the humidity by placing two absorbent store paper towels so they hang in the trough and up below where the eggs will land. When water is poured into the trough, it will wick up making a large wet surface area. This will increase the humidity in the hatchery.
I started by just filling one of the troughs with water and I placed the egg basket on top. Then I cut out small stands for the eggs made from egg cartons.
I put the eggs in their tray and left the moisture inside where I could see it through the window. The humidity at this point is about 66%. The incubator stayed that way for days 18 and 19. On the morning of the 20th, I filled the 2nd trough with water and started locking again. I like to wait until I see the first fallopian tube before I add water to the second trough. This will increase the humidity to 70%. I keep the vents open a bit to let fresh air in, but keep most of the moisture trapped. When the eggs start to hatch, I try to delay the lifting of the lid for as long as possible. When the lid is lifted, it is difficult to retain moisture for the hatching process. It can cause the membrane to dry out and make it difficult for the chicks to get through. If I need to open the lid, I remember to spray warm water on the interior walls to increase the humidity faster. I have found that this method is very effective for getting a great hatch rate. VJP Pou Bird is a state inspected NPIP and hatchery located a short drive from St. Paul 30 miles north. We grow silk all year round, so we always have stock. Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we’re currently selling. Victoria J. Peterson
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