DIY AR-15 Build: Buttstock Installation

Today, in part eight of our DIY AR-15 Build, we’ll show you how to install the final piece to your Bottom Receiver, the Buttstock. in the Standard Parts Kit, like the one we recommend from Stag Arms. Read: how to install buffer pipes specifically Buffer and Action Spring. Believe it or not, these are some of the most important parts of the entire Lower Receiver and the cause of many of the AR-15’s confusing problems.

Install Buttstock

Contents

Before we get into the actual installation steps, let’s talk a little bit about the choices we’ve made on the parts here and why we recommend them.

Mil-Spec receiver extension (buffer tube)

Commonly known as buffer tubes, Receiver Extensions are available in either Mil-Spec or Commercial versions. The difference is usually that the Commercial tube is made from extruded aluminum rather than forged aluminum like the stronger Mil-Spec pipe. The two also vary in size, and you’ll find more aftermarket stock built for Mil-Spec tubing.Read more: Overwatch Guide: How to Play Mercy | Top Q&A as a general rule here, ask about your Receiver Extensions manufacturing process, as there are cases where extruded Mil-Spec diameter extensions are being sold there.

Why shares?

Something we’ll run into with the installation video is zoning for the receiver’s end plate and Castle Nut. This is done to make sure Castle Nut doesn’t work for free and to allow your Receiver Extension to spin. If allowed to rotate, the buffer holder can release causing headaches and causing you to carry a non-working gun. Four of them are available and it is optimal that you should try to bet on two positions if possible. With many newer slings and their flare orientation, you may not be able to fit more than one spot. Such was the case with the IKICKHIPPIES SLAP Plate as well as the Magpul ASAP that we have on another build. ) on your Castle Nut after tightening or pulling it down (specs below). Castle Nut is also a great place to add a witness mark, especially if you don’t bookmark it.

Buffer difference

For this build, we’re using Bravo Company’s Carbine H (Heavy) Cushion, weighted with 1 Tungsten weight and 2 steel weights. When your air hose is shortened (From Rifle Length to Medium Length to Carbine Length) it is more important to use a heavier buffer to accommodate the extra pressure being pushed into the Object Pool carry the Bolt with a Direct Impact system like we’re building here. Read more: how to make smoothies thicker without yogurt The heavier buffer absorbs the extra pressure, as well as partially delaying the “unlock” phase of the active cycle. This delay can help with early/hard-to-miss extraction problems where the bullet has not left the barrel and there is still pressure building up in the magazine. to the proximity of the piston to the gas port. Heavier buffers can also help control bolt bounce, which is a bounce that occurs when the Bolt Bearing Group returns after contacting the Receiver Extension. to really know how everything in a build works until you take it out and snap it. One last thing to mention here is that less effective ammo combined with heavier buffers can cause glitches. We’ll test that out, though.

Action spring

Often referred to as the Buffer Spring, the Action Spring is an often overlooked and critically important part of the AR-15’s maintenance. A properly functioning Carbine Action Spring, like the one we’re using with this build, should be within 10 1/16 in. And 11 1/4 in. If it falls outside these parameters, it should be replaced, this is a valid/inactive measurement. On a rifle’s length spring, the go/no movement translates to 11 3/4 inch to 13 1/2 inch.

Necessary parts

Magpul MOE Stock (Mil-Spec Model)
IKICKHIPPIES SLAP Plate
Receiver Extension (Buffer Tube)
Receiver expansion nut (castle nut)
Carbine Action Spring
– The following parts are included in the Stag Arms Spare Parts Kit –
Cushion holder
Spring Holder
Pin takedown back
Uninstall Pin Detent
Uninstall Pin Detent Spring

Tools necessary

Receiver’s gain block is lower
Antique Wrench
Frontal punch
Ball Peen Hammer (4 oz.)

Assembly instructions

Thread the Castle Nut into the Receiver Extension Tube with the Cutouts facing the back.
Place the Receiver End Plate, in this case the SLAP plate, on the Receiver Extension with the raised area facing forward.
Thread the Receiver Extension Tube through the back of the Lower Receiver, stopping just before the Buffer Holder hole.
Insert the Mattress Holder Spring and Cushion Holder into the hole and press the corner of the mattress with your index finger.
Hold it while continuing to screw in the Receiver Extension Tube until the Gasket Holder is caught by the tube.
Insert half of the Rear Takedown Pin into the hole from the right side. Make sure that the cut on the pin is facing back.
Place the Takedown Pin Detector into the hole on the back of the Lower Receiver, followed by the spring.
Move the Receiver End Plate into position to place directly on top of the Takedown Pin. Press it into the spring, being careful not to bend the spring.
Turn the Castle Nut down to lock the spring in place and tighten with your dowel driver to the appropriate torque of 40 ft. Lbs. or just make it tight!
Alternatively, you can use Blue Loctite (not Red!) to make sure your Castle Nut isn’t free or bet it.
To stake Castle Nut, get your Center Punch and drive some materials from the Receiver’s end plate into pre-cut areas in Castle Nut. Ideally you want to have at least two areas to bet on, but when using a number of end plates, you may only have the top area to bet on. This is the case with SLAP Plate and Magpul ASAP that we have used in the past.
You should also create a Witness Mark so you can visually tell if Castle Nut has fallen on you.
Insert the Action Spring and Buffer into the receiver Extension Tube and complete the Lowering by fitting the Magpul MOE Button into the receiver Extension Tube.
This is done by straightening the release lever’s latch to make it fully active. It’s a pain in the butt on the Magpul MOE, as most collapsible latches only require you to pull the town on the release lever.

That completes the Lower Receiver part of this DIY AR-15 Build. Join us back here soon for our first installment in the Collector Board above! Read more: how to make skyrim run faster | Top Q&A

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