How To Make A Trench Coat Pattern

Trench coats are one of my favorite spring garments. I’ve never actually made one myself, so Make Nine -challenge seemed like a perfect excuse to add it to my to-do list. as you will see in the image below… My idea was to make the new jacket very similar to it, just changing the collar. And obviously in a different fabric.

Jacket details

So we have a typical double coat, with princess lines, shoulder straps and sleeves and storm flap on the right. Jackets usually have a straighter look. Instead, this one has a flared hem. That’s why I decided to make a jacket similar to this, rather than a classic trench. Also, this is also an interesting pocket structure that I would like to try. It’s a single felt bag with a built-in fake flap. (And I lost a button!) The good thing about having an actual garment, instead of just a painting like last time, is that we can also see the back. I will need a lot of buttons! I counted a total of 17. The trench is fully lined, including the storm shield and the rear. So it will take a bit of work to build this one. Let’s start with the template.

Jacket pattern

To draw this pattern, you’ll first need a basic jacket pattern tailored to your measurements. Choose the one with the darts, as we’ll get a better fit and the darts needed to create the princess seam. It’s a classic tailoring pattern:Don’t worry if yours is a little different. If it also has a dart at the waist in the back even better, you don’t need to duplicate the collar, because it will be different. I have added all the moves on the following drawing. I hope it’s not too messy!Read more: How to say hello to a contoured dad The lines are just pink, but you can see the original pattern there too. Check the waist measurement to see if it is as good as the original. If not, change the dart width. This is a jacket, you don’t want it to be a perfect fit. My groove is 90cm/35.4in from the back of the shirt.

Moving steps

Starting from the left:

• I made the stand button wider, because this is a double-breasted jacket. From the facade c. It is 6.5cm/2.56in wide.
• As usual, the lapel starts at the first button. I drew a larger lapel, because I wanted to see how it would look. The head is higher than the original but the breakpoint remains the same. The collar will start at the front c.
• I combined belt darts with bust darts to draw princess seams. The flared hem has started at the waistline.
• Then I moved the side seam to the center. The original model has more seam on the back.
• The original model didn’t have a belt dart in the back, so I added it. I moved the dart shoulder so I could draw the princess seam. Sores at the border. All seams from the waist down must be parallel to each other.
• Finally, I drew the storm flap and the back flap. You see them in blue. There is a box fold on the back. Remember to close the darts. You can leave it comfortably on the back shoulder or open the dart volume like a flare.

Patterned pieces: In case you’re wondering where the front piece is, I just cut the front piece twice because I’m lazy… The sleeves will be as good as they are if you don’t change your bracelet measurements . Just mark where the straps will be sewn.

Collar patterns

The collar I want to use here has a separate collar holder, unlike regular coat collars. My old trench also had a separate collar holder, but of a different kind. I tried searching for the name for this collar, but couldn’t find it, so if someone knows it, please write it in the comments! I have prepared a plan for the construction. It’s a combination of Winifred Aldrich and my own. She calls it the shaping collar. Reshape pieces after cutting and opening/overlapping. Note you have to flip the stand collar around. It’s not so logical, but the opposite side of the stand will be sewn to the collar. Check measurements with the jacket neckline. Start measuring at the collar and continue to the stand collar. Add a notch at the shoulder line of the jacket. Cut off or add excess to the back c. Parallel to the original line, then check the collar measurement with the collar holder and do the same.

Bag pattern

Read more: How to remove blue from blonde hair So that bag I told you about.. Here it is! You know how a single rope is folded in half? Well, in this case, it’s not folded in half. Instead, on the other side of the fold, there’s a fake flap. I went crazy trying to figure out the pattern just by researching the existing bag. But I think I got it. These are the remaining pattern pieces. Straps and straps are basically just straight pieces with pointed ends.

Groove toilet

Of course I sewed a toiletle, because sewing a jacket directly in the last fabric is too risky a way! And yes, I found some things to modify. Turns out I don’t like big lapels. And the border is not flared enough. Also, I feel like it’s a bit too tight from the back and sleeves. Outerwear needs more space. Never satisfied with the sleeve length, I decided to make them longer again.. In the end, I decided to move the mouth of the bag back a bit. Here you can see the changes I made to the pattern pieces.I added 2cm / 0.79in flares to each seam, starting at the waistline and added 4cm / 1.57in flares at the back, which was not there before. 1.5cm / 0.59in of excess on both sides of the seam below the arm, this will also make the sleeve wider. And I added 1cm/0.4in to the back, near the bracelet. When I was there, I extended even the front a bit, you can also see the lapel modification in the picture. Of course then I also had to modify the storm flaps and back lapels. I had the idea that it would look good if the back flap wasn’t completely flat, so I added some flare.And sleeves. I only had to widen the bottom sleeve, since that’s the area I modified. I slit the sleeves to reveal just the side seams of the bodice and add volume, maybe some at the hem. As before, I made the sleeves longer. This time it’s 2cm /0.79in. Whenever you make changes to the bracelet, double-check to make sure that the sleeve still matches it.The next step would be to add the seam allowance and hem and outline the face and lining patterns. You’ll see those next time! Read more: how to make rope from raw wool Do you like making coats? Have you ever sewn a trench coat?

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