How To Increase Draw Weight On A Recurve Bow

So you’ve got a recurring bow and you’re done installing all the parts that come with it. but what now? Here are all the details you may not find in a guidebook to get the most out of archery. If you don’t have an ILF bowstring, some of the following may not apply to your bow Read: how to increase the draw weight when the bow is recurring You’ll need to start by assembling and stringing your bow . You have your arrow rest installed. Following these steps in order will get the best results.

Set the angle bracket height

The height of the tie rod is the distance between the rope and the valley of the hilt. The height of the braces determines the specific point at which the arrow separates from the string during firing. There is a “sweet spot” where the bow works best. The manufacturer provides a range of recommended bracket heights for each arch.To set or adjust the height of the brace, you will need to add or remove twists from your chain. First measure the current brace height. If it is not within the recommended specifications, remove the bowstring and add twist to increase the height of the braceor Eliminate twisting to reduce splint height. If you need to adjust the brace more than 1/2″ to get it into the recommended range, I strongly recommend purchasing a new string of a length that better suits your bow. With the brace in the middle of the range it is suggested to shoot a few arrows. Feel the vibrations and listen to the sound it makes. Next try bows with different brace heights in 1/8″ to 1/4″ increments in both directions. The brace height that feels and sounds best is a good starting point. You can fine-tune the curly brace height by following my instructions on optimizing the curly brace height in my article “An Olympic Periodic Adjustment Method Like No Other”

Digger machine

Tiller is the specific arc of the limb as it bends. If you have an ILF bowstring, it will shoot more effectively if you adjust the tiller to suit the position of your fingers on the string. If you shoot detached finger hooks, start with a 1/4 inch active tiller. That means you want the upper tiller measurement to be 1/4″ larger than the bottom tiller measurement. If you shoot three under the hook, start with the cultivator measure.On the ILF bow, turning the chi bolts in or out will adjust the tiller. Caution: there is a maximum number of turns that you can safely remove the latch. Check your instruction manual for the maximum number of turns allowed.Before adjusting the tiller, set the chi bolts to their mid position. First, loosen the chi bolt locking screws. Second, screw all the chi bolts inward. Third, back both bolts out evenly with half the maximum number of turns allowed. Fourth, tighten the bolt locking screws of the limb. To find the tiller, measure perpendicular from the rope to the base of the limb, just past the end of the lift bar at both the top and bottom. To adjust the tiller, you will have to tighten or loosen one or both of the limb bolts. By tightening the chi pin, you will reduce the tiller gauge. By loosening the chi pin, you will increase the tiller gauge. Tightening only one pin will slightly increase the towing weight while loosening only one will slightly decrease the towing weight. Adjust the chi bolts as desired until you have the correct tiller for your hook style.

Center String (Align String)

Read more: How to get brad pitt . functionYour chain should be directly aligned down the midline of the riser and the base of your limbs. To check lateral alignment (left/right), I highly recommend using a Beiter pedometer. (aka Beiter block) If you don’t have a beiter meter, you can use masking tape. Place a piece of masking tape on the upper limb about 1” above the lift head, and another piece of tape on the lower limb about 1” below the lift door. Measure and draw a vertical line on the masking tape down to the exact center of both limbs. Now you tie the bowstring. Stand on the back of a chair, stand straight behind the bow, and cover your non-dominant eye with your hand. Align yourself so you see the string running down the middle of your stabilizer. Try not to move your head position and look up at the top Beiter block. Then move your eyes back to check the alignment of the wire with the stabilizer. Then look down at the Beiter block below. Repeat the move from the stabilizer to the upper limb, then back to the stabilizer and down the lower limb until you feel confident seeing how the rope aligns with the limb gauge while centered at the same time. stabilizer. so you see the chain running down the middle of the back of the tiller bolt holes. Make sure you’re looking directly behind the bow and not at an angle to one side or the other. Again, keep the wire aligned with the center of the holes as you look up and down to check the line alignment. I don’t necessarily recommend this method as there’s no exact way to tell if you’re aligning directly behind the bow, but it should at least show you any misalignment.If the cords don’t align at the exact center of the stabilizer/turnover bolt holes and the chi gauges at the same time, your limbs are misaligned. ILF risers have lateral swing/limb adjustments. Depending on the arc there will be adjustment screws or adjusting shims/ washers. Make small changes to each limb and check the alignment again. Move the limb in the opposite direction of the misaligned cord, i.e. if the cord is deflected to the right, move the limb to the left. Make small adjustments until the wire is centered directly on the stabilizer / tiller bolt and both gauges at the same time. Unfortunately, however, there are some inherent problems with using a stabilizer. We cannot guarantee that the stabilizer bar is straight, or that the stabilizer bar is glued to the mounting tube perfectly, or that the stabilizer bar mounting bolt is completely straight, or even the stabilizer bushing in the bow is completely straight. completely align the strait and in line with the center plane of the bow . For years I have struggled with a good method without using a stabilizer. I believe I have come up with a reasonable solution. For my personal chain alignment method, click here Remember to re-tighten all side aligner screws after any adjustments.

Check for sprains

To check for torsion, first string the bowstring. With the bow facing the ground, look down the entire length of the bow from tip to tip. Adjust the bowstring so that it visually aligns down the middle of the abdomen of the limbs (the side of the limb that you see while shooting). Look at the left/right alignment of the tip closest to you relative to the back of the limb (the side of the limb that you don’t see when shooting). If the head tilts/points to the right or to the left, the limb is crooked. All limbs have some twisting points. There may be slight twisting that is not noticeable to the human eye. In the photo above, the limb has a very small amount of torsion, which is more than acceptable.Read more: how to insert images in latex However, doing this will upset the center of the string. Personally, I believe it’s extremely important to center the string, so I don’t recommend trying to fix the limb torsion. You’ll have to decide if you want to put up with the twist or try to fix it. If the twist is bad, I recommend replacing the limb!Some manufacturers, such as Hoyt, have adjustable studs to combat limb torsion without changing the alignment of the cord.

Draw weight

The ILf bow also features an adjustable towing weight. In general, you will have about 10% adjustment. The drag weight listed on the limb is usually the average pull weight for that pair of limbs. Once the tiller is set up, take the towing weight measurement. To increase the towing weight, evenly tighten both limb bolts. If you do not adjust the top and bottom quantities correctly, you will change the tiller. To reduce drawing weight, evenly loosen both part pins. Remember, do not push back the bolts more than the maximum allowed.

Nock location setting

First of all, I strongly recommend using two tie locators on the nock. The copper bend on the nock positioner is very heavy and can cause excessive wire oscillation and reduced efficiency. I use a small serving part for my nock locator. I recommend using a serving diameter equal to or larger than that used for the center portion on the chain. If the material used for the nock locator is too thin, it can get in between and separate the fibers of the center section. I also covered this in my previous post “10 Common Errors That Damage Accuracy and How to Fix Them”. If you are shooting detached fingers, start the top locator at 3/8″ from rest height. If you are firing the bottom three, launch the top locator at 1/2” above the rest of the arrow. The final position will be determined as you adjust the arrow.A good lanyard on the nock locator will stay in place but also be adjustable. They are not very difficult to force. Starting with at least 12 inches of serving, I like to stroke my hair to keep it from kinking. I tied a bunch of knots overhand. Tie the first knot at the height you want then tie five more knots moving towards the tip of the limb. Alternately tie one knot at the top of the rope and then the next one below the cord. When you get a total of six, trim the excess leaving 1/8″ tails. Using a lighter melt the ends into the button. Be extremely careful not to burn the string or serving under the nock locator. Keep the rope parallel to the ground. Use only the base of the flame and always keep the flame above the wire. Do this for the top and bottom node locators. The bottom locator should be tied just below the arrow button. I don’t recommend leaving a space between the bottom of the arrow button and the bottom button locator.

Installing the cushion plunger

If you have an ILF arc with a cut center groove, you should use a buffer plunger. Start by installing a tension spring that fits into the piston and set the piston’s tension to the center position. now set the depth of the lock neck so that the plunger protrudes slightly out of the window. You will adjust the depth during the arrow alignment.

Arrow alignment

Look at the bowstring from the back, visualize the line down between the limbs and look at the arrow axis position in relation to the string. On a right-handed bow, a common method of arrow alignment is to move the buffer piston until the point of the arrow aligns slightly to the left of the string and the arrow is just slightly left of the centerline of the bow. .

Remaining alignment

Adjust the arrow rest arm so that the end of the arm points up somewhere between the center and the outer edge of the arrow shaft. If you are not using a press, you may want to have more of the rest of your hand sticking out of the arrow shaft. Next, adjust the hand rest up or down until the buffer plunger is centered on the axis of the arrow.

Initial vision alignment

Start by aligning the aiming pin directly on the center of the arrow axis. The pin sheath will usually fall just outside the wire.

Complete

At this point, your arrows are already set up initially, and I recommend switching to arrow adjustments. If you are unsure about your arrow adjustment, please see my article “Arrow Adjustment 101, Periodical Edition“ If you have any tuning tips or tricks that I did not mention in this article. Here, I’d love to hear about them. Please leave a comment below with your tuning tips. Read more: How to connect an equalizer

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